Time for some Frame Storming!

Just after we run our ‘photography with rules’ article, Popular Photography magazine comes along and beats us to it with an even better idea, by declaring January 21st as ‘international shooting-all-the-time’ day!

The concept? Take a photo at least every 5 mintutes for 15 hours of the day. But surely, that is complete and utter madness? Well, no — much for the same reasons that stream of consciousness helps writers getting in touch with their inner voice, and much like brain storming is a much-loved route to corporate grandeur, forcing yourself to keep photographing even when your shutter finger hurts and your ideas are drier than a nun’s hoo-hoo can be a way to develop as a photographer.  

 

Charge up your camera, load it with at least a 1GB card (or have seven or more rolls of 36-exposure film on hand), and be prepared to shoot, shoot, shoot.

Your assignment is to take at least one picture every five minutes during the day. You get eight hours off for sleep, and another hour for…well, stuff you wouldn’t want to involve photography. That’s a minimum of 225 photos.

Your subjects are all up to you. This is to become a better photographer, not just a photo opportunist. That is, you don’t want to be someone who only gets a photo when a postcard-style setting presents itself.

We improve as photographers by forcing ourselves to shoot; by finding the photograph when there doesn’t seem to be one; by studying the light — every kind of light we encounter — and seeing the photo potential in it. Capturing a great image of Angelina Jolie under a softbox is easy. But how about that candy wrapper in the gutter? Or that group of friends posing under a mixture of natural, incandescent, and fluorescent light? Can you still make an outstanding photo when the subject and conditions aren’t perfect?

The time pressure, not to mention the pressure to make as many of the 225-plus photos as good as possible, will be intense. Maddeningly so, I suspect.

But I’m willing to take the chance because I know that by the time January 22 dawns, I will have grown as a photographer. And maybe I’ll even have produced a few amazing images.

I love the idea. If you do well, you can even win a Pentax K100D, so check out the full write-up over on Popular Photography, and get those batteries on charge.

My extra challenge: If you do the frame-storming challenge, put it all into a flickr stream, and tell me how it went!

(thanks, matt, for the tip)


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Dogma photography

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As a kinda-sorta follow-up from my most recent critique, where several of the commenters mentioned that they felt that their photography got better when they imposed rules on themselves, I started thinking: Which other constraints can you put on photography?

First of all — why? Well, in a machoistic kind of way, making rules about the way you take photos is a creative way to think about photography. Take this restraint, for example: For a day, only take photos that have a strong diagonal. It means you start thinking about framing your photographs in a completely different way than you would otherwise. Perhaps you don’t get home with a single photo that is actually worth using, but the lessons you learn from the experiment will come in very handy for later photography assignments. 

 

So, what sort of constraints should you be considering? Well, if you are hardcore enough, why not try and work through this list, from start to finish? If you do decide to try — as always — post a comment to the thread, because I’d absolutely love to see the results of this.

Give it a shot. At worst, you lose a bit of time, and at the very least, you’ll become a more experienced and varied photographer out of it. Perhaps you are even helped towards developing your own photographic style?

Try these rules…

Squaring circles is a long-standing Flickr meme: Taka a photo of something round, and crop it so it becomes a square photo. There are nearly 50,000 photos to use as inspiration, so it’s a good one to get started on!

The Don’t-look-now challenge: Take a series of photos without looking through the viewfinder. Learn to estimate the field of view of your lenses, and try to frame the photos according to the ‘feel’

The 5 shot challenge discussed towards the end of the ‘thinking of photos as paintings’ thread: Take a maximum of 5 photos in a day.

The car challenge: Include a toy car in your photograph.

The ‘my lightmeter broke‘ challenge: You can look through the viewfinder to focus and frame, but you can’t look at what the light meter tells you. Set your camera to fully manual and an appropriate ISO value, and see how well you can estimate shutter times and apertures.

The 20-step challenge: Take 20 steps, then find something to photograph from where you are standing, and click the shutter. It’s an observation game more than anything, but it’s a lot of fun, especially if you compare your results with friends walking the same route or similar.

The interloper challenge: Subtly work a person doing something silly into otherwise good photos. Get them to do Phoons, for example.

Interpret this: Take a line or a verse from a piece of music, and try to illustrate it through photography. If nobody can guess what song it is, try again.

The shoot-from-the-hip challenge: Walk through town, and see how many people you can photograph without being noticed.

Create a longer-term project. Have you seen Smoke, where the main character has to take a photo of the same street at the same time every morning? That sort of thing. Or perhaps you can convince your family to document the tides of time?

Find patterns, whether there are any or not, and start a project bigger than yourself. Like the exactitutes project, which is studying stereotypes and how people let themselves conform to them

Try taking square portraits in black and white, like in our Newyear’s challenge.

The focus challenge — set your lens to a focus somewhere in between infinity and the closest focal range, and don’t change it. All your photos have to be taken at this focus.

The goofy challenge: Collect photos with a common theme. Need some to get you started? Try this PhotoJoJo thread, or have a look at my own project: Locks on toilets.

Frame Storming is like brain storming: Keep taking photos for a whole day, regardless if you have any inspiration or not.

Take a photo a day for a week, but you can only take them on a low-quality camera: A web-cam, a mobile phone camera, or similar. It’s a good way of doing abstact stuff because you can’t get everything you want to into the frame most of the time, and makes you focus on composition and lighting — you have no other parameters to play with!

Face-off challenge: Take a series of portraits, but you’re not allowed to show any part of their face.

Finally, if you are getting the feel for this whole ‘photography with constraints’ thing, try Digital Photo Challenge. They’ve got weekly challenges (along with 24 hour challenges etc). I once tried to submit a photo to every challenge for 6 months. It’s a nightmare, but the commenting and the feedback you get is a great development tool. Just don’t be disheartened: The photos that win aren’t always the best photos: DPChallenge is a bit of an elitist society. Still, worth trying it for a laugh!

Can you think of any other challenges? Post them in the comments!


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Think of photos as paintings

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There’s a lot to be said for how the accessibility of affordable digital cameras has improved the level of photography overall, and I’m strongly in favour of the idea that digital photography is a good thing.

The downside of digital photography is that we are seeing a whole generation of people who never saw a frame of film as something precious. There are thousands upon thousands of photographers out there who only started thinking about photography when they weren’t limited to 24 or 36 frames before bringing the film to the local shop, and then wait for hours for the results. 

 

Waiting for 2 days for a letter to arrive? Rubbish — Use e-mail! Looking up something in an encyclopedia? Bollocks to that — throw yourself at Google, and you’ll have an answer in seconds. You don’t even have to know the alphabet or be able to spell the word you’re looking for anymore.

The same thing is happening to photography, and it’s happening fast. In a way, it is sad. I remember when I started out taking photos. I was given a 24 exposure film, and it had to last me a month, because I couldn’t afford to buy, develop, and print more than a single roll of film per month. Digital cameras didn’t exist, computers weren’t powerful enough to do even the simplest image editing, and learning of your own mistakes was a terribly long-winded process.

Everything is different now, and it is difficult to say if it is better or worse. I’m guilty of it myself: Instead of planning carefully, measuring light properly, framing everything perfectly, I snap 20 photos to get the light right, 15 more to get the framing right, and a few test shots for good measure.

All in all, it took a painter with a photo camera to remind me what I am doing wrong with photography.

As part of my Photo Critique sessions, I received an e-mail from Kate Ferris, who lives in Scotland. She’s special in the fact that she doesn’t classify herself as a photographer. In fact, she’s an artist first and foremost, and uses photography almost as a tool to help her along. I don’t know if her workflow is meticulous and slow or quick, measured, and precise, but whatever she is doing, it’s showing in the her photographs.

As she says: “I take photos as paintings”, and I think it is a philosophy that is worth exploring further…

Photographic impressionism

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Kate submitted 4 photos for critique, and for the first time in Photocritic history, I’m going to use them all in the critique. The first photo is by far the least good of the lot, but it is being let down on technical grounds rather than on the idea. Titled “Inside looking Out”, it is a photo of an urban scene photographed through a window. The neon yellow near the bottom of the photo looks as if it could be a police officer. The yellow reflections in the window make me think that perhaps the photograph was taken from a bus, and the absolutely ridiculous amount of grain evident in the photo tells me that she was really pushing her camera to the max. It’s probably the only way to capture this photo — especially if it was taken on a moving bus — but the neon, combined with the red light towards the right side of the photograph (a brake light? A stop light) and the more yellow light above it appeals to me.

The great thing about this photo is that it would be easy to re-create, and easy to get it right. The effect is created by streams upon streams of water cascading down the window, and the tasty bits of the image are due to the reflected light. So — grab some lanterns, and re-create the photo in your front garden. Different color lights in the lanterns. Camera on a tripod at a low ISO (100 would be great). Get the water hose out to get the window properly streaming with water. And start experimenting. This photograph is impressionism at its finest.

You can’t see anything of what is going on, and yet it is appealing on a level I can’t quite grasp myself. This photo is rubbish — but the idea behind it is fantastic, and all it needs is some more experimentation, a little more planning and a bit less grain.

Photographic realism

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The next step on the arts ladder in our adventure in photography is realism. You know those paintings you see in museums where the scene looks as if it could be real, but then doesn’t quite work out? I recently went to Edward Hopper’s exhibition at the Tate in London, and found his works to be downright unsettling. With every photo, there would be something subtly wrong, which upset my photographer’s eye for a picture. Eventually, I worked it out: It’s the lighting. Shadows are missing. Shades are going the wrong way. The most important parts of the images don’t have any highlights on them.

The second photo in this critique invokes that very same feeling on me. I have no idea what I am looking at here — it looks like copper nailed to a wall, perhaps in an old museum or a theatre — but that is not important. The strong, but interrupted vertical lines, along with the unidentifiable object to the left, and the strongly contrasting colours on the right really appeal to me, somehow. It is quite obviously the case of spotting something which appealed to Kate, which she set out to capture. Again, the grain is rampant in this photo (and the particular way the grain manifests itself indicates that this photo is a victim of heavy increases in contrast in Photoshop), and the photograph would have been far better if it had been a more pure representation of the scene, but the idea behind the photo is great. Kate, if you can, go back to the same place, bring a tripod, and try again. I love how you’re thinking, it’s just the execution that’s letting you down.

Photographic Expressionism

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Taking a leap of faith into yet another photographic period. The third of Kate’s photos is a bound into expressionism. Moving away from the documentary sphere and into the realm of emotions, the expressionists bend reality to illustrate a frame of mind. To me, this photograph, obviously taken on a beach somewhere, very strongly invokes the feeling of just that. The only frame of reference is a very small speck of sand that isn’t blurry. The rest of the image is a wild mixture of motion, turmoil, and very strong contrast.

Is it a technically perfect photo? Far from it — the foam on the wave is over-exposed, the darker areas of the foam have a very odd blue tinge to them, and I wish a little more of the sand had been stationary and in sharp focus. Having said that, this photo succeeds where many other entries to my photo critique completely fail: It’s illustrating an emotion and has a message. More than that, the photographer saw something that nobody else saw, and decided to try to express it in a way that would show it to casual observers: By capturing it as a photograph.

De Stijl

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The last photo from Kate is a lot more conventional than the others, but is also the most technically accomplished. The sharpness is spot-on, the exposure is fine, and the colours have a subtle vibrancy in their own right. The-unhurried simplicity of the ropes hanging in the water is an image of deep, heart-felt tranquility.

I know I’m probably pushing the comparison a bit far, but if I were to compare this photograph to a photographic style, it would have to be De Stijl. The most famous Stijlist — Piet Mondrian — became famous for the forced simplicity in his art works as he introduced a strict minimalism and what he saw as a level of order and harmony beyond what common humans could achieve normally. This photograph is rather close to that ideal: Dark colours, prime colours, simplicity and tranquility united in a photograph that would have looked marvellous on my living room wall. Why? Because anybody could have taken it, but one person took the time to capture it for all to see.

 

Have you completely lost your mind?

Well, probably. The thing is, I’m a little surprised myself at how moved I am by these photographs. Normally, I’m the first to point out the technical flaws in a photo.

There’s a moral to this story, though, and that is that there is a name for people who take perfectly exposed, impeccably focused and faultlessly framed photos every single time: Technicians.

If I were a photography teacher, I’d take on a visionary student without the technical skills over a technically perfect photographer who lacks the imagination. Every time.

So, if you learn one thing from this critique, let it be this: Take a closer look at painters, illustrators, and other artists of times gone by — visit a gallery or two, and stop to think why their art works. Then take as much time as you need to re-create some of it as photography. Trust me, there’s greatness on that path.

Let’s all try it: The 5 shot challenge.

Finally, I have a challenge for you. Take out your digital camera, and go for a walk outside. On your entire walk, you are only allowed to take 5 photographs, and they have to be of 5 different scenes. If you screw up a photo for any reason, you have lost that scene, and are not allowed to try again.

Think of photography as painting. Be meticulous. Be precise. Spend a lot of time looking through the viewfinder. When you’re sure everything is perfect, pull the trigger.

If you try this, I’d love to see the results — post them in a Flickr gallery or on your blog or something, and post a link to it in the comments to this post.


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Competitions on Photocritic

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IMG_9827-copy.jpgThe hawk-eyed among you will have noticed that we’ve got a couple of new features here on Photocritic. The most noticeable is a competitions calendar in the sidebar on the Photocritic home page.

You might have spotted that I’ve every now and again included some competitions into the site. This is because I love the idea of using competitions to turn you into a better photographer. Sadly, keeping a complete list of photography competitions up to date is damn near impossible, especially because that would detract from some of the other things I would like to talk about here on Photocritic. Instead, I’ve teamed up with the gang over at Photo Competitions. You should probably subscribe to their news feed anyway, but just in case you forget about entering a competition, you will have a reminder in the sidebar!

The other news item is that I’ve started promoting Earth Shots a bit more, by including their ‘photo of the day’ in the sidebar of the article pages. I really enjoy their photos, and quite frequently they serve as a reminder of why I became a photographer in the first place — to capture some of the beauty we surround us with.

Photo Competitions and Earth Shots — Welcome to Photocritic!


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Your pet peeves...

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LF-01-040505-053.jpgI spend a lot of time looking at people’s photos, both for work, and for this website. It helps me identify where I go wrong myself. I’ve grown to realise that my biggest downfall is that I tend to use odd crops on photos, and I’m obsessive about certain aspects about my photography.

I’m curious though… Are my hang-ups and failures the same as other photographers’?

Go on, vote below or — even better — go into some detail about the faults that gets you again and again, in the comments.

(you can vote on an existing option, or add your own)

When taking pictures, what's your biggest weakness?

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Turn your camera upside down

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upsidedown.jpgHave you ever thought about why digital compacts with built-in flashes have such an obvious shadow on them? Well, obviously it’s because the camera is too damn small to get some distance between the lens and the flash. Quite apart from the problem with red eyes (which, luckily, is easy to avoid), it means that the shadow thrown on your subjects is annoying. 

 

You can reduce the badness of built-in flashes in many ways: You can create a flash diffuser (another one), but these generally only work on off-camera flashguns, or larger built-in units. For compacts, you can try building an on-camera reflector, which helps lots.

If you have nothing at hand, though, you might just like this nutty idea: Turn your camera upside-down! I have no faith in the method whatsoever, but if nothing else, it will make people laugh, so this tip falls in the same category as the Pez-dispenser in your hotshoe or the umbrella-hat flash diffusor!


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Time-lapse photography

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There’s a lot to be said for the persistency of time-lapse photography – it makes life rather interesting. Reducing a period of a few hours (like a flower opening to the sun), a few months (like a flower growing or a baby growing inside a mother’s belly) or a year (seasonal timelapses, construction work) is amazing stuff.

Have you ever tried time-lapse photography?

  • Yes, I do it all the time
  • Yes, a few times
  • Yes, once
  • No, but I'll give it a shot
  • No, and I don't want to

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To learn more about time-lapse photography, why not try the Wikipedia article. For tutorials, check out the Haworth Village tutorial – it serves as a good introduction as well as a tutorial.

Time-lapse software

Taking the photos is all good and well, but you’ve got two hurdles: Taking a sequence of photographs, and going from photos to stop-animation. Some cameras actually have timelapse photography built in (although I can’t remember seeing it in any cameras since the Casio QV-8000 in the late 1990s – why? It’s easy to implement, and all digital cameras have built-in clocks! Come on, manufacturers, you can do better!), but if you aren’t that lucky, you have to either take the pictures manually, connect a time-lapse device to your camera (Such as the TC80N3), or use your computer to control the camera. The software that came with your camera often has a ‘control your camera from your computer’ type piece of software, which normally has a time-lapse function built in.

On the software side, there are loads of good programmes out there. For the Mac, the old classic is iStopMotion, which I’ve used briefly when it was in Beta, and I found it to be very interesting. It has since ‘grown up’ into a fully-fledged high-quality piece of software which is easy to use.

Granite Bay software make an application especially for Canon cameras, designed to take and merge the photos into videos.

Of course, you don’t have to take the video approach – you can also take very powerful still frame time lapse photos… Like the photo used at the top of this article!

Some inspiration

Check out time lapse photography on YouTube, Google Video.

Highlights: Rebuilding Ground Zero in NYC, Picasso painting, Walking around the Giza Pyramids, Repainting the ice on a hockey rink, a year of seasonal change in Norway, and finally, a time-lapse of a cross-country drive from LA to New York in 5 days.

Who uses macro photography?

As some of you know, I’m currently writing a book about macro photography. As part of this, I’m writing an appendix on the commercial uses of macro, only to realise that I don’t know that many professions that use macro- and micro photography as part of their everyday life.

So… I’m turning to you, my faithful and lovely readers, to appeal to your wisdom. Can you think of any fields where macro photography is used regularly?

I’ve come up with the following:

  • Forensics
  • Research science
  • Food photography
  • Jewelry catalogues

… What else can you think of? Pretty please leave a comment — you can be anonymous if you want to!


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Portraiture: Loosen up!

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I’ve spent a lot of time looking at portraits over the last couple of days for various reasons I shan’t get into in details, but there’s one pet peeve I’m afraid I’m going to have to share with you…

Why are people always so damn serious when they are being taken photos of? Does nobody understand the art of portraiture anymore? 

 

back.jpgTo me, a portrait doesn’t have to be a flat-on head-and-shoulders photo. Hell, I’ve seen excellent portraits that don’t even have faces in them. The point I’m trying to make is that there are too many people why are just straight-up trying too hard with their portraiture.

It all depends on what you are trying to do with your photos of course, but are you really the dude who wants to get known for taking plain, boring heads-and-shoulders shots? Granted, I do believe that all good photographers should have a go at classic portraiture, but ultimately, what is portraiture all about?

To me, portraiture is about capturing something that is typical about somebody, in such a way that people who know the subject instantly recognise them, and in a way that people who don’t know them get enough data to make up some sort of opinion about them.

This style of portraiture presupposes that you aren’t taking photos in a lame-ass conveyor-belt-style (yes, Venture, I’m looking at you), but actually have the time to get to know your subjects, and it might just work best with people you know quite well to begin with.

But… Isn’t experimentation and an attempt at capturing the unique what photography is all about? So why aren’t people playing around more?

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If you’ve got some stunning portraits that break the rules – why not post a link in the comments? I’d love to see some photos that defy the monotony, before I go spare and lose all faith in the photographers of the world…


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Quick Poll: Your favourite subject?

Sweet and simple: What’s your favourite thing to take photos of?

(If you want to add something that isn’t on the list, just click ‘add’, and you can type in your own

What is your fave photography subject?

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(also remember that you can look at — and vote on — our past polls!


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Wanna write for us?

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pencils.jpgIf you’ve been following Photocritic for a while, you can’t have missed the fact that we’ve had some world-class Guest writers involved recently. RJ Davis’ article on paper negatives was very well read indeed, Anna’s introduction to portraiture went down a storm, and Alecu’s rally racing photography article was rather well received, too.
 

Would you be interested in writing something?

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Do you love photography? Would you like to have a go at writing for an extremely popular photography blog? Check out this post, and read a couple of our earlier contributed guest articles to see what I’m looking for.

Also, don’t worry if you feel your writing isn’t good enough. It’s the factual content, and the opinions that matter. I’ve worked as an editor for a long time, and I’ll work with you to turn your writing into a sharply written, publishable piece. Unlike all the drivel I normally post in my Photocritic blog, then :-)

(Pencil tips image courtesy of Stansholic.com)


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Cross polarization

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Geekery and science meets photography: Cross-polarization is a fantastic little technique that exploits a quirk in the way polarizers work.

Think of light as wooden ice-cream sticks that are flying towards a set of bars. The bars will only let the sticks that happen to be aligned with the bars through, and absorbs all the other sticks. Before the filter, the light is moving in lots of different polarizations. After it has passed through the filter, all the light is moving in the same linear polarization.  

 

309176019_bf06255025_o.jpgImagine now, if you will, what would happen if you were to put another set of bars, rotated 90 degrees in relation to the first set of bars. In theory, none of the ice-cream sticks would get through, right? Well, that’s how Polarizer filters work, too. Of course, no polarizer filter is perfect, so some light will always get through, but the vast bulk of light is filtered out.

polar2.jpgCross-polarization exploits this by placing objects made of some types of plastic between the first and the second polarizer. For this particular set-up, you’ll want to put your first polarizer in front of the light source, then your plastic object, and then use the second polarizer in front of your lens.

The effect that can be seen when cross-polarizing light is startling. Chances are that you’ve seen cross-polarized images before, and thought that they were digital image manipulations or done with really advanced lighting. The opposite is true: Due to the manufacturing process used in creating injection-moulded clear plastics, the plastic takes on some ability to polarize light itself. When the polarized light passes through these plastics, then, their phase gets altered. By filtering out all other light with the second polarizer, you get the colorful, acid-flashback-style images.

cdcover.jpgYou can buy sheets of polarization film from most photographic outlet – all you need to do is to cut off a piece that is big enough to cover your light source, and another piece that is of a size of the right size to stick in front of your camera lens. Then, the hunt starts for finding the most interesting types of plastic to start playing with…

Photos in this post were found by searching for Cross Polarization (or Cross Polarisation) on Flickr. The cutlery image is by Elyssa, the mad colours image is by Geartron, and the CD cover insert is by _maverick_.


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Dammit, you blinked!

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blinkandyoullmissit.jpgIf you’ve ever taken a photo of a group of people, you’re probably used to the chant of ‘oh no, I blinked’, usually from that obnoxious little blonde that you can’t stand the sight of. But did you know that there is actually some science behind taking photos of people, and whether they blink or not?

Behold – the guide to avoiding people’s half-closed, semi-drugged looks! 

 

People who always blink

As a photographer, you eventually come across people who always seem to blink in photos. They probably aren’t aware they are doing it, but they are – and rather consistently, too. This isn’t a coincidence, it’s actually an effect of the way modern flashguns work. New, high-tech flashguns use a pre-flash to measure the light available, and then shoot the ‘proper’ flash a fraction of a second later. This happens so quickly that you don’t even notice it – it looks like a single flash. Some people — especially some athletes and top gamers — have very fast reactions, however, and will blink as a reaction to the first flash, so by the time the photo is actually taken, you are photographing their half-closed eyes.

So how do you avoid it? Well, there’s nobody who can react fast enough to close their eyes on a single flash (it’d mean you would literally have light-speed reactions, and that’s physically impossible), so all you need to do is to avoid the first flash. There’s no button on a flashgun or a camera anywhere that says ‘turn off pre-flash’, but there are settings you can change that does this.

sidebyside01.jpgKnowing that the flashgun uses the pre-flash for measuring light gives a hint: Just prevent it from doing light measurements! You can do this by using the flashgun in manual mode: Set the flash output yourself. To find out how much flash you need, either learn how to use your flash (there’s a rather excellent article about this on the Digital Camera website), or just use the trial-and-error method.

Alternatively, you can use the Exposure Lock function (circled in red on the D400 400D on the left here) that exists on most advanced cameras. By pressing the button, you are forcing the camera to do the light metering it needs to do. When you are ready to take the photo, it won’t bother doing any measuring, which means that there is no pre-flash, and your photo-victims won’t be blinking!

Avoiding blinking in groups

I found a wicked little article on LiveScience.com titled Picture Perfect: How to Make Blink-Free Holiday Photos, which goes into the science of taking blink-free photos of people. It’s actually quite a funny read (if you’re a geek, like me)

“At any given moment for a typical person, their eyes are likely to be blinking about 4 to 5 percent of the time,” said physicist Piers Barnes of the Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization. “This is fine if you only want to take a photo of one person, but once you start adding extra people, then your chances of getting an unspoiled photo start dropping.”

Excellent, yeah? Thought so. Now go read the article :)

(The livescience article is via this comment)


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Photograph of the Year competition

Sweet baby jesus, I’m actually rather hyped about the PhotographyCorner’s 2006 Photograph of the Year contest. They’ve got a massive $14K worth of prizes, too.

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I’ve always thought that competitions are a great way to sharpen up your skills as a photographer. There are a lot of sites out there where you battle it out for bragging rights (Digital Photo Challenge used to be my favourite, but they went down-hill a while back), but there are an increasing number of competitions where you can win serious stuff as well.

The newest kid on the block is PhotographyCorner, who are going all-out with their competition. They’ve got some big-name sponsors, too, including iStockPhoto, Bibble Labs, Lensbabies, and Lowepro! No wonder, then, that they’ve got $14K worth of prizes up for grabs.

The competition is fierce tough, with lots of really high quality entries. You can get an idea of the level that is on display on the PC 2006 PotY website. Even if you decide not to enter, it’s worth having a click-about to get some ideas for your next projects.

If you’re up for entering, check out the PhotographyCorner.com 2006 Photograph of the Year Contest page for more information, and then get your entries in. I’d suggest you do enter, even if you don’t have the biggest of faith in your photography skills – The only way to improve your work is to practice, and entering compos might be just what you need to kick your inspiration into high gear!


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Using Shallow depth of field

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So, you’ve got your exposures down pat, and your framing is getting better by the day. Excellent. What is next? Well, the lovely Andrew Ferguson, who I know via LiveJournal, submitted a couple of photos for critique that illustrate the next logical step forward: Using shallow depth of field in a creative context. 

 

The first hurdle for many photographers is to get stuff in focus in the first place. The next hurdle is to get the things you want to be out of focus, err, out of focus. Awesome. So how do you go about doing that? Well, let’s learn from Andrew:

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This photo, which he asked me to take from his overall rather nifty Flickr stream, serves as an excellent example of how you can use DOF to create a multi-layered image.

The eye is automatically drawn to the parts of the photo that are correctly exposed and in focus, whereas the over-exposed background, which is blurry to boot, gets less attention. If this image had been pin-prick sharp all the way, it would not have had any impact whatsoever: The messyness of the people in the background would have seriously detracted from the overall impression of the photograph.

As it stands, I have no idea what the item of jewelry is, or if it means anything. Quite apart from that, the choker the person in the foreground is wearing is vicious-looking, and her black dreaded hair strengthens the impression of a person who has embraced the ‘goth’ lifestyle.

The foreground is rather strongly contrasted with the background, in that it is a very unusual portrait, which can in fact be interpreted in several ways. The two that sprang to mind:

1) The phrase ‘show me your friends and I’ll tell you who you are’ springs to mind with this photo: Instead of showing a full-on portrait of the person who is in focus, the photographer chooses to express her personality through that of her friends, despite the fact that the friends are out of focus.

2) This person is ostracised from her group, and her alternative clothing style, her going-against-the-grain type personality and what comes across as a strong personality is rebelling, but she is paying the prize in the form of loneliness.

If the people in the background had been in school uniforms, or otherwise ‘conformist’ clothing, I would have leaned towards option 2. I believe that this would have made a stronger photograph on an emotional level, too. However, one of the people in the background has blue hair, and the guy standing up seems to have blond dread-locks, which leads me to conclude the 1st explanation.

Obviously, this photograph has a lot going for it in terms of ‘showing a little, hiding a lot’, with multiple possible explanations. It is one of the things I quite like about it, but what really makes this image is how it goes about creating this illusion: By using a very large aperture (f/5.6 at ISO 200 and 24mm focal length, in the case of this photograph), there is only very little of the image that is actually in focus: The foreground model’s jewelry and the far-most locks of hair.

In the beginning of this critique, I explained how this image could easily have been completely rubbish, but I hope that the long-ish monologue (which really wasn’t meant to be quite that long, honest) serves to illustrate how the limited DOF has helped pull this image up. It isn’t perfect — If it were, I would have been able to come up with a more consistent story as to what is going on in this image, and why the people in the background are relevant — but it’s a very fine photograph because it allows the viewer to spend some time thinking, making up his/her mind.

If I were to come up with any ways to improve this image, it would be to use different people in the background, perhaps dressed as jocks, nazis, or even as circus clowns. The point is that they need to serve as either a connection or a contrast, and at present they are too similar, yet too different to offer an unified message in the photo.

Bokeh

bokeh.jpgShallow DOF and bokeh go hand-in-hand as two rather important concepts in photography, and it is something that is worth keeping in mind when you are working with limited depth of field: The type and quality of the lens you are working with has impact on how the out-of-focus parts of your image look. In Andrew’s photo above, the out-of-focus elements of the image are works of impressionistic art in themselves (See the crop to the left, for example).

Because of the beautiful out-of-focus qualities, this image works well. If you experiment with the same, but discover that your out-of-focus backgrounds don’t look as expected, try it with one of your other lenses. If you have any cheap lenses, try with them as well – I have a couple of no-brand, cheap-as-chips lenses that are nigh-on useless for any quality photography, but I keep them around beccause they have tremendous qualities for shallow depth of field photography.

The only real way to find out which lenses work and which ones don’t is to experiment, so have a go!

Andrew’s second photograph is this one, of an old motorbike:

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… Which I’m not going to say a lot about, other than the fact that it is – yet again – an excellent example of careful use of depth of field.

The photo was taken with a Canon Digital Rebel XT and a moody old 24-105 EF lens at 50mm, 1/250 sec, f/4.0 at ISO 400, and I really enjoy what the increased grain at ISO 400 brings to the photograph. With these kind of lighting conditions, you could easily have shot it at 1/125 ISO 200, or 1/60 ISO 100, but the trade-off of faster shutter time and increased grain works very well, perhaps especially because it’s such a gritty topic of photography.

As a personal preference type thing (i.e lots of people would disagree with me), I think the photograph is too bottom-heavy. The sticker on the fork of the bike is disturbing, and while the dirty, oily rag over the bike, combined with the indicator and the reflector of similar, yet different shades of orange really lift the photo, I think there’s too much going on, and too little of a focal point. I like how you’ve used the rule of thirds in the composition of this photo, and it is fine just the way it is.

Because this is my photo critique, however, and because I can’t let a photo stand without a few suggestions for improvement, I’ll go in line with my usual demands: I would have loved this photo to be a lot tighter, and higher impact.

A humble re-crop suggests the following, for example:

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This version uses a different approach to the rule of thirds: it breaks the image by using diagonals. The rain-cover is the only things that stands out in the image because it is teh only thing that is straight down. Everything else is at a diagonal: The rain grid in the background, the boke itself, the outline of the rain cover on the left side, etc. As I say, it’s very much a taste thing, and I would most certainly not insist on an approach such as this one, but I feel that the re-crop also highlights the strength of the original photo – the tack-sharp focus on the bike itself, and the out-of focus-ness of the background.

Finally, the out-of-focus areas on the last photo here shows how much of a difference a different lens can have: The small stones in the asphalt and the slats in the rain grid in the background are not particularly aesthetically pleasing in their own right. Everything else being equal, this photo would have looked rather differently if you had taken it with the same lens as the one you used for the first image.

So, what’s the lesson to take home from this critique? Use a limited DOF to offset your foregrounds effectively, but beware of how different lenses can make the background highlights (‘Bokeh’) look very different from each other. Finally, remember that expensive lenses don’t necessarily have a more pleasing out-of-focus experience.

Andrew, thanks for sharing your photos, and good luck with your future photography!


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New year's challenge: Square portraits!

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thumb-besquare.jpgRight, I don’t have a lot of time to do a post today, but I just thought out something pretty cool – You all know what I look like, but I have no idea what you all look like. So how about a square portrait challenge?

Rules: The picture has to be perfectly square, has to be in black and white, and has to feature yourself.

…. Go!

My entries, to serve as some inspiration, or something, are below. Take the photo, post it on Flickr, Deviantart or something, and then post a comment below!

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Don't ignore Paper Negatives!

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brass.jpgSo, you fancy yourself a bit of a photographer, do you? Awesome, that makes two of us. Or, judging by the number of people regularly visiting his blog, a few thousand of us. If you’ve ever played around with pinhole photography (and if you haven’t, you totally should), you’ll have stumbled across Paper Negatives – or the idea of using photosensitive paper rather than film – to make photos.

My good friend R. James Davis (check out his website, his photograhy rocks) recently wrote a wicked little piece about what Paper negatives are, what they are, and how (and why) they are used.  

 

Not all photography is as simple as squinting into the viewfinder and pushing the clicky shutter button. Enter the world of alternative photographic processes, and take a look at this, one of my favorite little monsters…

The paper negative is an analog photographic technique which involves replacing the usual film with photographic printing paper. Roll-film formats are sometimes used, but most work is done with large-format cameras, which normally use sheet film. The larger sheets of paper are much easier to work with. In general, paper negative photography utilizes only black and white papers, although it is possible (but more complicated) to use color printing papers as well.

The paper negative process was developed by William Talbot in the 1830s. His process, the calotype, was the first by which many positives (prints) could be made from a single original negative. Although the materials and some of the methods have changed, the basic process remains the same: expose a sheet of paper coated with silver halide emulsion; chemically develop the image, producing a negative; expose a second sheet of paper by placing the negative on top and shining a light through; chemically develop the positive on the second sheet. Repeat as necessary.

Where and why are they used?

Modern paper negatives are used by those experimenting with pinhole cameras and those who wish to capitalize on the medium’s limitations–and therefore expressive potential. Good paper negatives are a challenge to produce: the emulsions have very limited exposure latitude and tend to be extremely contrasty.

Further, paper emulsions are pretty insensitive to light, and usually sensitive to green and/or blue light, so exposures tend to be long, even with normal-aperture lenses. Use a pinhole in place of the lens, and you’re going to be there a while. Reciprocity failure usually extends exposure time even further. Indoors, under tungsten lighting, exposure time may be several hours, mainly because of the general dimness of the lights and their low color temperature.

Why bother?

What attracts photographers to paper negatives? Well, they’re cheaper than sheet film; have characteristic limitations which can be exploited for artistic effect; and, well, for being so simple, they’re a challenge to master. Plus, there’s lots of room for experimentation, both in exposure and chemical process. And finally, it’s satisfying to hang up a nice photograph you went through hell to make.


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First steps in Portraiture

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My entry into Photography was a very gentle and gradual one. As such, I don’t actually remember much of how it all came about, nor do I remember the specific steps I took, nor in what order I learned the lessons, or why.

Handy, then, that there are people out there who are just coming to terms with their disease, errr, affliction, errr, passion that is photography. In this case, my dear friend Anna went on a rant-a-licious rampage, which might help some budding photographers gain some self-esteem and follow a new-ish photographer in her first footsteps towards what’s promising to become a life-long obsession: Taking good portrait photos.

Without further ado, I’ll hand you over to Anna! 

 

This last year I’ve become very interested in taking photos of people. There are several reasons for this; firstly I actually have some friends now and want to take photos of them that they genuinely like and secondly, because it’s a damn difficult thing to do and I like a proper challenge. I don’t do conventional portraits (you know the ones; sit up straight, smile for the camera etc.). You can look at those once, put them in a drawer or on your grandma’s wall and they don’t tell you anything at all about the person. When I take a photo of someone, I want it to convey something about their character and in some cases, when it’s someone I know and care about, I want it to reflect that as well.

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Photo by Anna Badley

guitarplayer.jpgThe first proper portrait I did was April this year. The friend in question was highly suspicious of my abilities, hugely hungover and rather lined and crumpled (he used to smoke 20 a day and had recently given up). I only had a compact digital camera with me at the time and the light was fading rapidly. I put it into sepia and made it look old fashioned because he’d insisted he didn’t want to look ginger on it, the awkward bastard. He was actually quite chuffed with his portrait and has merrily posted it on websites to show people. More importantly though, it stands as a record of how crumpled he actually was, and now, 9 months on, I’ve taken some more photos where he looks a lot less crumpled and he’s pretty pleased about this. This is what giving up smoking does for you.

Since then I’ve taken a lot of photos of people. Most of them have been fairly reluctant to let me point a camera at them but glad they did when I show them the results. I’ve found that women are more difficult to photograph than men because they are more worried they will look awful which is a bit of a self-fulfilling prophecy really. If you are anxious about being photoed, the photo will inevitably look crap. This has proved to be the case with my mother. She has the ability to grin inanely in an alarming way that she only ever does when someone points a camera at her. I even managed to capture the stages of facial contortion that lead to the inane grin by taking four photos over the course of a second – normal, anxious having noticed the camera, attempting to form grin, GRINNING ANXIOUSLY.

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Photo by Anna Badley

I suspect this anxiety people instantly develop when a camera is pointed at them is because of too many bad pictures taken in the past – rabbit-in-headlights, blinded by flash, cheesy grinning forced posing type shots that never see the light of day again. Let’s face it, there’s nothing like a crap portrait to knock your confidence about how attractive you are and photos can be horribly unkind because they catch you for the tiniest split second where you might be laughing and thus showing off your crooked teeth.

portraitsalma.jpgThere was a point to this post (I’ll get there in the end, honestly) and it was that as Christmas has just been and gone there are a lot of people out there who have been let loose with new cameras, or new lenses for old cameras. Basically, the world is not a safe place right now if you’re nervous about having your photo taken. However, for all those new camera owners, you might get a photo worth sticking on your wall if you try out these five things:

1. Try and shoot in daylight rather than indoors. This will stop the flash going off and giving people red eye. Red eye makes people look mental. Of course, if this is the aspect of their character you are trying to capture, then that’s fine.

2. Photograph one or two people at a time instead of trying to get large groups together; you’ll never get everyone smiling nicely at once and also big group photos rarely look good when printed because you have to stand further back to take them so everyone looks smaller and blurrier.

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Photo by Haje Jan Kamps

3. Never ask anyone to smile. It never works because it makes them think about what their mouth is doing – disastrous. Tell them a joke or pull faces at them if you must, or take a non-smiling photo for a change. In fact, if you can catch them when they’re not aware you’re taking a photo that’s even better; for example if they are engrossed in doing something they enjoy doing. You could even take a photo of them from an unusual angle – from the back, perhaps? For the truly camera-shy, there is always the option of snapping them whilst they sleep. This is probably a bit ethically dubious, however, and you might want to show them the photos when they wake up and check they’re okay about it.

 

4. Timing. With a digital camera you can afford to get a bit carried away and blast off fifteen or so shots of one person on the off-chance one will come out right – a great way to learn what works and what doesn’t. There is no shame in this; even the professionals get a bit trigger-happy sometimes. You can also check the photos you’ve just taken to see if people have their eyes closed etc. which is a major bonus. However, whether you’re working with digital or film, it’s still worth watching and waiting for a potentially good shot and not just panicking and pressing the shutter button the moment you’ve got your victim (er…I mean model) where you want them. Talk to them a bit. Give them time to relax. Ply them with drink. Chloroform them if needs be (only kidding).

5. Failing all else, you can hide all sorts of atrocious things by changing your photos to black and white or sepia. This is very easy in digital – quite a lot of digital cameras actually have these options on the camera itself – sometimes under the manual settings. This means you can actually go all arty and shoot in black and white or sepia if the mood takes you. Not so easy in film of course – you have the options of starting off with a black and white film in the first place, or scanning your photos and adjusting them in an art package. Black and white is a wonderful way of hiding spots, disguising drink-related red faces…and getting rid of purple and pink anoraks.

Good lord I went on a bit there. Sorry about that. I’ll shut up now.

Some of the pictures in this article were taken by Haje, because Anna didn’t send me any before she vanished for her Christmas break. If you like her photos, why not check out Anna’s DeviantArt page or her Flickr stream?


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Contrast, colours, and curves, oh my!

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curves-galore.jpgCurves is one of the most powerful tools a photographer has in his or her arsenal. You can do a lot more with curves than you can do with the Levels tool. In fact, most photographers who embrace curves stop using the Levels tool altogether – although until you fully understand what Levels is, what it does, and how to use it, you’ll never be able to get the full potential out of the Curves tool either.  

 

So I figured it was time that we had a very close look at Curves, what they do, and how to use them. Just when I started researching the topic, I discovered that my new friend Matt Greer has an amazing write-up on curves over on his web-site, creatively titled Photoshop Adjustment Layers – Curves.

In fact, his whole blog is worth reading, because he has a series of good Photoshop tips, tricks, and in-depth tutorials that – without being a patronizing git – gives you a gentle introduction along with more in-depth power tips.


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Merry christmas and NY!

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fireworks.jpgWow, I can’t believe it’s Christmas already. If you celebrate it, have a fabulous celebration, and if you don’t, have peaceful time anyway!

As for new year’s – I’m going to Edinburgh again this year, to celebrate Hogmanay. Knowing those nutty Scotts, it could get quite mental, but I’m looking forward to it lots.

Updates will probably be somewhat limited over the holiday season for various reasons, but I’ll be back stronger than ever in 2007!


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