Front focus? Back focus?

Many of us trust our autofocus implicitly – because it’s just one less thing to worry about, really. But what when the lens starts to do weird stuff? My mate Chris over at DSLR Blog has the skinny…

If you auto-focus on an object the camera will attempt to fix the focus at the correct distance between the camera and the object.

Front focusing is when this calculation goes wrong and it focuses before the object, back focusing is where it incorrectly focuses behind the object. Either way what you achieve is a photograph where the focus is in the wrong place making your object blurred or soft.

Manually focusing still works but in effect something is wrong with either the lens or the camera.

Some more info, along with tips as to how you can test for these problems, in the Front and Back Focussing Explained article.

Coherency in photo exhibits

fomu

For a while now, I’ve been wanting to write a review of a photographic exhibition. I wasn’t especially concerned by which exhibition, more that I wanted to look at an exhibition holistically: as a collection of photographs that had been brought together with a specific aim or purpose. I wanted to consider what I thought worked, what didn’t, and what could be done better. Ultimately, I wanted to be able to say if I thought that the exhibition had achieved its aim, or if it had made me feel something.

When I was on holiday – exploring Flemish cathedrals and drinking Trappist beer – I spent an afternoon at the Antwerpen FotoMuseum, or FoMu. Amongst its other exhibitions, it was displaying a collection of photographs taken by Belgian photographers in the inter-war years.

The potential for the exhibition was sweeping. Its introduction said how: ‘…the period between the two world wars was a time of sweeping social changes. Developments in photography reflect this,’ as well as mentioning the ‘fierce conflict’ that arose between traditionalist and modernist photographers. I was looking forward to an exhibition of contrasts and of conflicts, a series of photographs that illustrated progress in photography and changes in society. I looked back on an exhibition that disappointed me and didn’t live up to its potential.

What I saw was an interesting selection of photographs – portraits and landscapes, street scenes and still lifes, abstracts and studies – that had been beautifully framed, some of which were unusual and some thought-provoking, but I felt as if there was nothing more to the exhibition than a group of pictures taken between 1918 and 1939. There was no sense of cohesion, no aim, no signal emotion aroused by the images. If there was an objective to the exhibition, I couldn’t tell you what it was, and in my case it certainly didn’t accomplish it.

Organisation

Perhaps the most obvious way to arrange the collection would have been chronologically, which would have charted the devastated landscape, shredded society, and ruptured economy of 1918 that rose, grew, and progressed through the 20s and 30s to women’s suffrage, the jazz age, and technological accomplishment, before collapsing into the abyss of the totalitarian invasion in 1939. But it wasn’t chronological. I wasn’t able to see social change and innovation depicted in a series of photographs.

It’s possible that a curator would prefer to move away from the obvious, perhaps instead exploring the photographs thematically. The vast range of pictures available could have been arranged according to any principle you might imagine, and within those principles it would have been so easy to compare the traditionalists with the modernists and enjoy the artistic conflict of the time. Portraits, landscapes, and still lifes; studies in light and shade, texture, and natural phenomena; contrasts of mundane and usual. Instead, I found myself looking at a pair of beautiful studies of light and shade – chess pieces in shade and a woman’s hand holding a coffee cup – that had been flanked inexplicably by a street scene and an uninspiring still life. A series of three nudes were hung between a picture of a child doing arithmetic and a woman rowing on a lake. Whatever feelings those nudes might have aroused were superbly stifled by the pictures adjacent to them.

Tucked around a corner, as the exhibition reached its close, were two beautiful abstract portraits: a pair of eyes and a hand resting on a book. How effective could it have been to pair these with more traditional portraits? A sort of compare and contrast exercise, if you like. Instead, I very nearly missed them. It was only because I took a second turn around the gallery that I found them. I’m sorry if someone else should have missed these gems.

The art of showing less

FoMu had an opportunity to present something beautiful here; something unusual and enlightening that displayed some searing pictures. Instead, I felt as if the exhibition curator was so overwhelmed by the possibilities to present the pictures that he flung them at the walls and hung them where they stuck. Rather than leave the exhibition feeling as if I’d enjoyed a journey through the Belgian photographic psyche, I felt a sense of discordance. I didn’t know what the angle of the exhibition was and I had no lever into it. All the same, I’m glad that I went, and there’s a picture of some piercing eyes that I’ll not forget in a hurry.

Pictures have a wonderful ability to inspire, be it awe, surprise, amusement, social enlightenment, even historical insight. Let them do that.

Photography in Belgium Between the Wars,

FotoMuseum.be / FotoMuseum, Waalse Kaai 47, 2000 Antwerpen, Belgium

iPhone photography exhibit

iphoneexhibit

The virtual image of the iPhone gets exhibited in the real space on the walls of the Giorgi Gallery in Berkeley, CA.

Since the advent of the coupling of the digital camera with the mobile phone, we have witnessed an explosion in the number of photos taken: A folk art form has unfolded where the depiction of reality and spontaneous events has been assisted not through the sophistication of the camera, but through its ubiquitous presence in our everyday lives.

iPhone images are crude with low resolution, so they must be judged by their basic composition and the manner at which they capture the moment, as well as how well the photographer uses the limitations of the camera to express a vision. With this show we are not looking for seductive images loaded with technique, but images that are alive with the ephemeral spirit of reality.

Join the fun

200 images will be printed and displayed in the gallery for the month of February 2010, and will be sold as individual works of art. A book will be published that will include all of the images along with names and a short bio of each iphonetographer.

We welcome all applicants and encourage amateurs, since there is no such thing as a professional iphontographer, at least not yet, as far as we know. For many of the artist this will be their first introduction to having their work shown in a gallery, and we look forward to the chance to discover new talent!

FocalPop and 'reverse stock photography'

There are a lot of reasons why photographers are interested in making some extra money these days. An obvious reason is the economy in general, which has left many of us without our day jobs and photographers with less work.

There’s also the shift towards microstock, which has made it easy for buyers to get very cheap photos while photographers’ commissions continue to get smaller. For many new photographers, it may be the case that you’ve never sold your photos and you’re not sure what kinds of things to shoot or how to go about selling your photos.

A new site called FocalPop is aiming to build an alternate marketplace for photography that that shakes things up a bit.

Here’s how it works:

  1. People seeking photos fill out a detailed request on www.focalpop.com
  2. Photographers are notified of new requests and can submit their photos if they fit the bill
  3. The seeker selects a winner and that photographer gets paid the request.

The idea is to give photographers more information about what buyers want, when they want it, and how much they’re willing to spend. It’s free to sign up and anyone can participate in the photo requests. Photographers can upload photos they already have or shoot new work providing just what they buyer wants. The best part is that the commissions are high, starting at 70%, and FocalPop has a suggested pricing tool to ensure the buyers are pricing their requests fairly.

FocalPop is celebrating its official launch this week, after a three month beta period that began this fall. Looking at all the photos uploaded to the site during beta, it appears that quite a few photographers are interested in this kind of solution. What remains to be seen is if the photo editors of the world have the time to wait for custom photos, or if they’d rather just get their photos off a regular stock photography site…

The case for Pentax

For your first step into the world of digital photography, look beyond the two big brands for some creative features and competitive pricing!

When I recently posted my guide to choosing your first dSLR, I was ripped to shreds in the comments for overlooking Olympus and Pentax… Which is quite wrong of me: Pentax have long made some pretty awesome cameras, with features that Canon and Nikon haven’t had (like being able to remote control external strobes – a feature Canon has never had until the introduction of the Canon 7D!)

Someone who was particularly outraged is the most fabulous John Cavan, who wrote a passionate and well-articulated plea to stop ignoring Pentax – and he’s got a pretty damn good case, actually… here’s why:  

Canon, Nikon. Nikon, Canon. When most people think of buying a dSLR, that is often the debate that they wage with themselves. Of course, with the Sony purchase of Minolta, they may even now start to think of Sony in that debate. There is, however, another player on the market, a player that has been around for a very long time. In fact, they were once synonymous with SLR photography: Pentax.

Pentax is the first Japanese company to release a 35mm SLR in 1952 and, for quite a while, were the defacto standard for 35mm photography. The M42 screw mount, while not a Pentax invention, was made so prevalent by Pentax that it became known as the Pentax mount. In a sense, Pentax ushered in the age of SLR photography producing more cameras than all other manufacturers combined. So, what happened to them? They didn’t fall off the 35mm radar, even as they lost ground to names like Nikon and Canon, Pentax continued to innovate, but they were the last to move from the limited capability of the M42 mount and, to some degree, that probably hurt them the most.

However, Pentax didn’t go away. They continued to produce excellent cameras, including the classic K1000, first created in 1976 as a basic SLR, it managed to outlive all of its brethren and almost all successors because of its elegance and simplicity, finally hitting end of life in 1997. In 2003, Pentax entered the digital age and didn’t stop their innovation. By this time, however, the Canon/Nikon duopoly was pretty complete. A tough nut to crack, no?

 

Pentax is trying to crack that nut, so I’m going to talk about Pentax as it started getting serious about dSLR photography with the arrival of the K100D, K110D, and the K10D. The first two were the entry level dSLRs and the last was aimed at the prosumer. As with all of their cameras, Pentax focussed on certain key areas: backwards compatibility and the photographic experience. These are factors that continue to be key to Pentax since the introduction of these cameras, so let’s talk about them.

Backwards compatibility is a funny statement with digital, but it is applicable because it means that over 50 years of high grade optics are still available to you. Many of us Pentaxians have in our kits lenses that the modern dSLR owner wouldn’t even think of, wouldn’t even be aware of. We don’t have these lenses because there aren’t modern options for Pentax, because we have those too, but because they present optical quality as good as any current lens and at a price that you can’t hope to beat brand new. To give you an example, I own a Vivitar Series 1 100mm f/2.8 Macro manufactured by Kiron. This lens is widely regarded as one of the best, if not the best, macro lens ever produced and it’s nearly 40 years old. I paid $160 (Canadian) for it. To compare, a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens currently retails for $730 or $1249 with image stabilization.

Another backwards compatibility feature, which makes my last comment even more interesting, is Pentax image stabilization (or anti-shake) is in the body of the camera. There are certainly advantages to IS on the lens, such as IS in the viewfinder, but the single biggest advantage to it on the body is that every single lens I attach to my Pentax, regardless of age, can be stabilized. Of the major dSLR manufacturers, only Sony can say that, and they don’t have the lens history of Pentax. There’s another advantage: price. You can see that above, IS adds $500 to the price for what is otherwise the same lens.

For your first step into the world of digital photography, look beyond the two big brands for some creative features and competitive pricing!

For your first step into the world of digital photography, look beyond the two big brands for some creative features and competitive pricing!

Now, of course, Pentax isn’t just leaving us in the world of historical lenses, scouring eBay and Craigslist so that we can take pictures. They do have a very good line-up of modern lenses with zooms and primes, wide to telephoto including what many, such as DP Review, call highly desirable limited lenses. It isn’t just Pentax, we also have Sigma, Tamron, and others producing good optics for a good price. So, with Pentax, you can pull from the old (even ancient, M42 can be adapted to the modern bayonet mount) and the new. Heck, with an adapter, you can even put a monstrous medium format lens on it! I know a local photographer that uses his Pentax 67 lenses on his K20D all the time.

Alright, I think I’ve established that Pentax is good at keeping the old available to the new, but I also mentioned the photographic experience. Most modern dSRLs offer what I would call point-and-shoot features and, to some degree, that is a wise choice. Pentax took a different approach, aiming their line at people looking to have the pleasure of the 35mm film experience in a digital package. So, instead of scene modes on the dial, they added things like hyper-program (a way to quickly switch between aperture and shutter priority modes), sensitivity priority (control ISO with the rear dial), and shutter/aperture priority (camera sets ISO based on shutter and aperture). Other ideas, such as the “green” button near the shutter release that quickly resets the exposure, even in manual, giving you a good starting point for creative adjustment. They also have the RAW+jpeg button that will easily give you both formats for the next shot, a feature that just made it to Canon now.

So, where is Pentax today? Well, they have a line up modern dSLRs that have continuously received top reviews time and again. In the entry market, we have the K200D, K-m and the K-x cameras. The K-x is the newest and is something worth talking about, so much so that Photography blog gave it a rare “essential” rating. At the higher end, we have the K20D and the K7, both very highly regarded. The K7 was recently compared to the latest Canon prosumer (the 7D) on DP Review and came out very close, but also costs quite a bit less. I’m not going to go into detailed features for them, this is widely covered on the Internet, but I will note that the prosumer versions of the Pentax line offer a number of features that are usually only seen in substantially more expensive cameras. Where Pentax lacks is at the truly pro end of the spectrum, something they hope to rectify with a medium format digital in the new year. Mind you, that’s probably more than most of us would wish to handle if we’re not doing commercial photography.

In any case, I’m not writing to convince you to buy Pentax (it means more great lenses for me on Craigslist if you don’t), but to consider it. Canon, Nikon, and Sony all produce excellent cameras as well. I don’t think you, as the consumer, are going to be left feeling cheated with any of them. My only advice would be to get your hands on to the cameras and try them, all of them. The feel, the weight, and the placement of the controls are all going to be factors that should influence you as much as anything and that you can only get by putting it into your hands with a decent lens. If you do that, in a good photography store that lets you, then I think you’ll find that Pentax is as good as any of them and perhaps, now, the debate you wage won’t just be Canon, Nikon or Nikon, Canon.

About John

John is a software architect that just happens to be an avid amateur photographer. He did a lot of 35mm film (used Yashica and Pentax) in college as the editor of the newspaper, but then kind of let it slide for years after that because he could never be bothered to develop the film. Ultimately, he got back into photography with the Pentax K10D and then it just went from there. Check out his website, too!


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

Book: Put another dime in the jukebox

street-photography-london-big

Some of you have caught on to the fact that I’m sort of fond of this whole concert photography thing – and I’ve written about it at length here on Photocritic, and I’ve got a big(ish) portfolio of concert photos over on Flickr. One thing I’ve been meaning to do for a while, though, is to distill my photographs and what I know about concert photography into an article.

As I was working on said article, I realised that, well, what I’m working on isn’t an article at all. It’s a book. Which is fair enough, I thought, I’ll just create a book on it instead. So, I give you: Put another dime in the Jukebox: A guide to concert photography by yours truly.

Everything you never really cared to know about concert photography, neatly collected in one useful place!

Everything you never really cared to know about concert photography, neatly collected in one useful place!

It has a lot of pages (46, to be precise), a metric tonne of gorgeously high-resolution photographs (around 100, actually), and is riddled with tips, advice, ideas, and examples of how you can take the best possible music photos.

So, who is this book for?

Well, it’s part coffee-table book – full of glorious music photos. If you have no intention whatsoever to ever take a single concert photo, it might still be worth picking up a copy: this thing is hellapretty.

The book really comes to its own for people who want to try concert photography though: 100 photos offers plenty of inspiration, and the book offers info about the photos were taken… It’s got sections on equipment, how to gain access to the press pit, how to convert your photos to black and white, how to deal with poor lighting, and all that loveliness.

Sounds amazing, where can I get a copy?

Lucy Styles on stage on Flickr

Lucy Styles on stage on Flickr

I’ve created the book via Blurb, which means that it’s printed on demand – order a copy, and they’ll print it up and send it out to you.

The quality of the book is truly outstanding: printing quality is so good that you’d never know you hadn’t ordered it from Amazon (as you can still do with my book on macro photography – Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk), or from your local book shop.

To get your eager little paws on Put Another Dime in the Jukebox, reach for your credit card with one hand, and clicky here with the other (you ambidextrous wünderkind, you)… Enjoy!


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

How to hand-colour your photos

handcolour-BKProcess10

I recently had a conversation with Bob Keefer – a talented photographer who has decided to hang on to some traditional techniques in a world which is accelerating at full speed toward better, faster, stronger… His party trick is impressive: Take a black-and-white photograph, and colour them. By hand.

Creating gorgeous, real-yet-unreal photo-based art which redefines how you’ll think about photography and digital retouching? Obviously, I had to catch up with Bob to see what, how – and perhaps, most importantly – why… 

 

Why bother with hand-colouring?

'Brown Creeper' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. This was shot of a Brown Creeper near its nest in the forest outside my home in Oregon. (click for bigger)

'Brown Creeper' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. This was shot of a Brown Creeper near its nest in the forest outside my home in Oregon.

From the beginning of the 20th century, right up through the 1950s or so, commercial hand colouring was relatively common. Today, there are a few photographers who keep the spirit alive.

“I’m old enough to have grown up with some old hand coloured photos around the house when I was a kid in Alabama.”, says Bob. “There was a beautiful hand coloured portrait of my grandfather, a genuine Southern rogue, in our family album. One of my early baby pictures was hand coloured as well.”

Equipment

'Superstitions' - 16x20 hand-painted photo. Taken in the Superstition Mountains of Arizona. (click for bigger)

'Superstitions' - 16x20 hand-painted photo. Taken in the Superstition Mountains of Arizona. (click for bigger)

The easiest way to get started in hand colouring photos is to use coloured pencils and an oily solvent, which can be anything from mineral spirits to cooking oil. Materials aren’t everything, of course: “Use the pencils to colour in areas on the print and then dab a little of the solvent onto a clean cotton ball to blend the pencil work. It’s amazingly easy to get good results with coloured pencil”, explains Bob. The only catch is that whatever you use for colouring, you really need to work on a photo printed on old-fashioned fibre-based paper.

Traditional-looking hand coloured photographs were done with special oil paints that are similar to artist oil paints but have a much higher pigment load. The company that made them is still around so you can still buy Marshall’s photo oils. If you use these paints, you end up with a palette that looks very much like old-fashioned hand colour photography. Why? Simple – it’s the palette the photographers of times gone by used.

'Fern in Rain' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. In the forest of western Oregon. (click for bigger)

'Fern in Rain' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. In the forest of western Oregon. (click for bigger)

Continuing the tradition wasn’t good enough for Bob, however – he decided to evolve the techniques to create his own creative look: “I soon started using regular artist oil paints for my work, giving me a broader colour palette to choose from.”

“In the last few years I’ve switched almost entirely to artist’s acrylics”, Bob admits. “They’re much less toxic than oil paints and they dry quicker. I also believe they are less likely to degrade photo paper, in the long haul, than oil paints, though those early 20th century hand-coloured photos have stood up pretty well”. Of course, using acrylics brings in a brand new challenge, too: “Acrylics are harder to use well”, Bob says, “in part because of that quick drying time.”

Refining the process

'Heceta' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. Oregon coast. (click for bigger)

'Heceta' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. Oregon coast. (click for bigger)

Of course, there are a lot of books out there which might help you to get started. They can only get you so far, however: “After reading my way through most of the currently published books on hand coloured photography, all of which seem to deal mostly with dreamy boudoir photographs on one hand, and bright, over-saturated pictures of cars on the other”, Bob recalls, “I spent some time serving a self-imposed apprenticeship in hand-colouring that taught me more than any book ever will”.

As with so many other things, the quickest way to masterdom is practice, practice, practice. Oh and did I mention practice? “I pulled out a stack of one hundred of my own photographs, rejects one and all, and sat down to hand colour them all as quickly as possible”, Bob smiles, “The only rule was not to be self-critical of anything, no matter what. I coloured that first hundred, and then coloured a hundred more.”

'Fern' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. In Oregon. (click for bigger)

'Fern' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. In Oregon. (click for bigger)

“I still have them all”, he says, and gestures vaguely towards a set of drawers in the corner of the room. “They’re mostly awful. Truly, unabashedly awful”, he laughs, “But some of them were a little bit good, and the steady practice of painting day after day after day taught me a huge amount about what I wanted to do.”

Most art photographers have made transition from taking photos to making photos – Bob has simply taken that adage another step forward. “What fascinates me about hand colouring”, Bob reflects, “is the subtle interplay between the cool, modern, machine-age precision of photography and the softer, more expressive and deeply primal art of painting.”

Top tips

'Oregon Forest' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. In the Oregon forest one foggy morning.

'Oregon Forest' - 11x14 hand-painted photo. In the Oregon forest one foggy morning.

 

Less is more. Some of my best hand coloured photographs look at first glance like they might be pure black and white, but they’re a kind of black-and-white you’ve never seen.

Don’t be literal. This is not a time to colour within the lines. It’s also good to add in a few impossible colours here and there to keep the eye interested.

Break the mould. The usual stuffy criteria applied by camera club photographers don’t apply. Sharp focus is unnecessary. Zone system exposure isn’t needed. Perfect darkroom technique is also an extravagance. An interesting print that’s deeply flawed in technical terms may be much more interesting as a hand coloured photo than a technically perfect print of the same image would be. I never throw out my darkroom mistakes.

Go back to basics. The best way for photographers to improve their photography is to stop spending money on the latest camera gear and, instead, get solid training in the basics of art: Take a community college class in drawing, and then another one in colour theory, and finally one in basic design. Your pictures will become immeasurably better as a result.

How to hand colour your photographs

Now that you know the what and why, Bob kindly agreed to show you, step by step, how he does a hand-coloured photograph, from start to finished. Prepare to be astonished… Take it away, Bob!

Hand colouring process
This 8×10-inch black and white photo of summer leaves was shot on Tri-X and developed in Rodinal, a good combination for hand coloring, and printed on Luminos Charcoal paper, which, sadly, is no longer available. Here it’s taped to a work table to be colored.

Hand colouring process
I use regular artist acrylic paints and brushes for my work.

Hand colouring process
After quickly sealing the surface of the photo with clear matte acrylic medium and letting it dry, I begin by painting areas of transparent yellow acrylic on the leaves….

Hand colouring process
..Then I start mixing darker olive green into some of the other leaves.

Hand colouring process
At this point the image looks a little ragged.

Hand colouring process
I pick up a wash of ultramarine blue and clear medium on a brush; the color is an excellent one for darkening and deepening shadow areas.

Hand colouring process
At this point I’m just incrementally adding color, drying the paint, stepping back, taking a look, and adding some more.

Hand colouring process
Here I’ve just painted in some burnt sienna, a good warm reddish color, in some of the leafs. This really adds some subtle sparkle.

Hand colouring process
I sign my work on the front, in paint.

Hand colouring process
The final product.

About Bob Keefer

Bob has a degree in the study of religion from Harvard University. He’s been a newspaper writer for 30 years and now writes about art for The Register-Guard in Eugene, Oregon. In 2006 he was a fellow at National Endowment for the Arts workshop on theater and musical theatre. He crafts fine hand-colored photographs the old-fashioned way, using film. He uses a chemical darkroom, fiber-based paper and artist’s paints, without using Photoshop or any such new-fangled technology. No PhotoShop involved. Each resulting print is a unique work of art.

Check out Bob’s website for more examples of his work – and it’s well worth adding his blog to your RSS reader, as well.


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

7 weird and wonderful photo collections

The number 29

You know what the best thing is about photography? It’s not capturing slices of the world for all eternity, freezing your fingers off trying to get that perfect landscape portrait for which you have to get up at 3am and walk two hours to the top of a mountain, or even the hours and hours of discussions you’ll have with fellow photographers over whether Canon or Nikon wears the crown of bestest camera of all time ever.

To me, one of the most fascinating things about photos is that there are absolutely no rules. There are two hard limits on photography: Your fantasy, and the laws of physics – beyond that, you’re free to do whatever you want to do. We can’t do much about the laws of physics (although, with the recent spate of ISO 100,000 cameras, both Canon and Nikon are giving it their best shot), but there are lots of interesting ways you can try to give your creativity a boost.  

 

In 10 ways to break photographer’s block, I explored a few ways you can shake your creative rut – but to me personally, I think that introducing artificial constraints on my work (as discussed in my Dogma Photography article) is a great way to get creatively juiced up. Recently, I have been spending a lot of time on Flickr, and what strikes me, is that people do some truly in(s)ane stuff – which I, of course, am a complete sucker for.

So, without any further faff, I offer you… A series completely bonkers photo projects, and why they’re worth taking a closer look at…

Stick Figures in Peril

Please dont climb on this railing, by Leo Reynolds

"Please don't climb on this railing", by Leo Reynolds

I have no idea where Peril is or why you would want to go there, but this quite active Flickr group has a collection of mad, funny, thought-provoking and downright bizarre warning sign involving, well, stick figures in some sort of danger.

What can you learn? This project is so great because it stands as a reminder that there are photographs and photographic projects all around us. Have you thought about how many times you see warning signs with stick figures around you? It’s like yellow cars or pregnant women – if you start looking for them, they’re suddenly absolutely everywhere. And it’s the same way with photography opportunities. Once you start looking…

Electric Wheelchairs

Drive-By by Nige

Drive-By by Nige

Someone sent me a link to Nige’s Electric Wheelchairs moblog a while ago, and I’ve been scratching my head over it ever since. It’s street photography, but with a twist; the people in the photos are all on electric wheelchairs of some sort.

Of all the projects here, this is the one that makes me go why more emphatically than any of the others, and still… The photos are good, and I quite like the surrealism of it as well.

What can you learn? There’s a lot to be said for empowering and destigmatizing people, and photography is one way of doing that. As Nige says, “Electric wheelchairs are fanatstic, it’s a shame that only less mobile pensioners or those with disabilities get to have them, we want to zoom around too!”

Tea and Coffee making facilities

essentials by Vixgirl

essentials by Vixgirl

If you’ve got a job where you spend a lot of time on the road and in hotels, you know the feeling: You wander into your room, tired after a long day’s hard work (or waiting around for meetings to begin, which is not as tiring but the frustration alone will make you pine for the nearest pub), and you’re met with a crappy little television, a shower with rubbish water pressure, and the neighbours either having a loud party or making the beast with two backs, smacking the bed against your wall.

Take solace in the one thing which is consistently fabulous about hotel-rooms: the tea and coffee making facilities. This Flickr group is inspired by one of the extras on Bill Bailey’s DVD Part Troll, and does what it says on the tin: Photos of kettles and its accouterments, essentially.

What can you learn? That there is never any excuse for not taking photos – even if the weather is rubbish and you’ve spent every shred of your inspiration account, just look around you, and snap away.

Hotel Door Hangers

hanger 45, by Michael Lebowitz

hanger 45, by Michael Lebowitz

Michael Lebowitz, of Big Spaceship fame, posted a collection which is rather quite fascinating. “When my grandfather passed away last year, my family gathered to go through his belongings.”, Michael writes. “He had been in the foreign service and he had filled a whole wall of his study with hotel door hangers from all his travels throughout the world.” Of course, like a good netizen, Mike decided to photograph them all and post them for everybody to see – it’s glorious to see such a span in styles, languages, and time collected.

What can you learn? There are a lot of awesome things which can be collected and digitized – do you have friends or family members with odd collections? Do you? It’s an exercise in product photography, and you might get some additional ideas in the process!

Locks on Toilets

Redchurch bar, east London

Redchurch bar, east London

I’ve written about this one before… It’s an odd little project, which I came up with when I was hideously drunk one night – like all great ideas, in other words, and I just sort of continued doing it. Of course, it’s a lot more fun if it’s a collaborative project, and that bit seemed to work quite well – The Locks on Toilets pool on Flickr currently has nearly 300 photos in it – that’s 300 slices of rarely-photographed architecture from all over the world.

Daft? For sure. Funny? Well, I think so. Want to know more? Check out this post, then!

What can you learn? Obviously, if even I can come up with a naff photography project, then anyone can. Go on, give it a shot!

The Number 29

The number 29

The number 29

What happens when you one day take a photo which has the number 29 in it, and then decide to find out what would happen if you were to take a photo of that same number whenever you saw it? You get the awesome Number 29 project.

It has photos. Containing the number 29. In lots of different styles, places, and ways. Um, yeah, that’s really all there’s to it, but do go take a look, it’s pretty nifty.

What can you learn? Nothing, really, and I’m sort of regretting adding a ‘What can you learn’ bit to each of these, because what this post really should have been is a simple list of ‘Hey, look at these awesome projects’, and now, instead of working on my day job, I’m sitting here coming up with contrived ideas for things you can learn from silly projects. Feh.

The Squared Circle

Screen shot of the Squared Circle Flickr pool

Screen shot of the Squared Circle Flickr pool

It’s a very simple concept: Take a round object, place it inside a square photograph, and see what happens. If you think it sounds a bit too simple, then I have to admit that I agree with you, but 85,601 contributions to the Flickr Photo Pool can’t possibly be wrong: this is one of the longest-standing and most popular Flickr photography projects. It shows some incredible creativity, a lot of variety for such a constrained topic, and no small amount of humour, as well.

What can you learn? I guess round pegs do fit quite neatly into square holes – and I’m very fascinated by how people still seem to be able to come up with new takes on what now is a battered old photographic meme.

What are your favourites?

Scroll about 3 inches down this screen, past the advert which nobody actually sees or ever clicks on anyway, and you’ll find a comment field. If you know of a wicked project I’ve missed, go on, share it!


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Beginnings in street photography

Flute Player at Picadilly Circus (click image for large version)

Sometimes, I learn more about photography when I teach about photography, than when I learn about photography. Bear with me, it does make sense, honest.

I have one friend – Daniela – who is a n00b at this whole photography things. Some of the questions she asks, and some of the comments she makes, sound like stupidity in my ears. ‘Of course not’, I want to burst out… And yet… that’s a learning moment for me. What is ‘obvious’ to me isn’t necessarily obvious to others – especially if you’re just trying to come to terms with photography and how it all fits together.

Anyway, Daniela was recently in Belgium, and had a go at some street photography. I’ve written about Street Photography many times before: A shot at Street photography, Katie Cooke’s The return of Street Photography, Brad’s Street Photography and the Law, Street Photography in Montreal, Prime Lenses, and why you need one, Oi You! no Pictures! and it’s also mentioned in my article about insuring your photography gear.

What I had never stopped to think, however, is how a beginning photographer looks at street photography. Daniela offered some insights… 

 

Flute Player at Picadilly Circus (click image for large version)

Flute Player at Picadilly Circus (click image for large version)

When I was Belgium I had a go at some street photography. I wasn’t entirely happy with what I produced, but it doesn’t mean to say that I won’t try again. In fact, I think I’m rather looking forward to having another go. These are some thoughts on the experience, from someone who is not nearly as talented – technically or artistically – as the Photocritic. I’m not sure if my ramblings are of any help to you, but they might be….

Aside from the obvious, being a camera, what you need most for street photography is confidence. That’s not confidence in your photographic abilities, it’s confidence to walk around holding however many pound’s-worth of camera equipment it is that you own and to take photos. If you don’t have the confidence to point and shoot, you won’t get the pictures that you want. The more photos that you take, the better you’ll become. That’s obvious. So don’t be put off by your attempts not working. They can only work if you actually try it.

Sometimes you catch the most amazing sights on the streets - like this guy with his 1970s ghetto-blaster (click image for bigger)

Sometimes you catch the most amazing sights on the streets - like this guy with his 1970s ghetto-blaster (click image for bigger)

Make sure that you know the rights and wrongs of taking people’s photographs in public places. If someone stops you, you need to be able to respond confidently and accurately about what you’re doing. Even if you don’t know what you are doing, be confident and act as if you do. It goes without saying that being polite and respectful is something you should be doing, and be careful taking photos of kids.

As much as I know you are anti-automatic settings on DSLR cameras, when you start out it can be helpful to use the automatic setting. Until you are accustomed to it, it’s easier to let your camera do the hard bit whilst you’re getting to grips with the concept of street photography. When you’re more experienced and more comfortable with what you’re doing, you’ll want more control over what you’re shooting and you’ll have a better feel for what you need to do. Don’t overwhelm yourself initially with the technical aspects, concentrate on getting a shot.

Daniela first wrote for Photocritic with her Teaching Photography to a 5-year-old article.


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Get a photo critique!

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I have been doing Photo Critiques on this blog in the past, but it’s starting to dawn on me that perhaps a blog isn’t quite the right way of doing these, so instead I’d like to start doing them on Flickr.

If you would like me to critique your photographs, here’s how to get on the list… 

 

Follow these steps

1) Get a Flickr account (you should probably do this anyway, it’s free, and Flickr is awesome)

2) Upload 3 photos you’d like me to critique It’s important that you choose three photos, because it’s difficult to give systemic advice on a single photograph. Also, it may be worth not necessarily taking your 3 best photos, but do pick photos that you are proud of, but which you feel might be improved – and yet you don’t know how. NOTE: Nudity and similar themes is perfectly OK, but remember to mark your links with (NSFW) – I don’t want to get my readers in trouble at work or with kids just because they clicked on a wrong link

3) Check your Flickr settings Please ensure that you allow notes on your photos, as these make critiquing much easier for me. Also, the photos have to be of a reasonable size – I can’t critique thumbnails :) If you haven’t turned on notes, I’m afraid I won’t be able to do a critique.

4) Add a comment to this post where the URL leads to your Flickr stream. In the comment itself, please tell add a link to the 3 photos you’d like critiqued on Flickr

5) Pay to skip the queue (optional). You may have spotted that there’s a pretty long wait on these now – I simply don’t have the time to do them all as quickly as I like. If you would like to skip to the top of the queue, and receive your critique within a week – guaranteed – make a donation of $50 via PayPal.

What happens next?

As far as possible, I will follow the structure I’ve outlined in my Doing a Photo Critique article – it’s worth a read if you haven’t yet.

Finally, remember what I said in my ‘dealing with negative photo critiques‘ article – you may not like everything I have to say, but my intention is to help you become a better photographer. If you only want to hear that your photography work is ‘OMG AWESOME LOL’, then you’re not in the right place :)

Also, it’s worth nothing that despite of persistant rumours of the contrary, I’m only human, and I will only do critiques when I feel I can actually make a useful impact – sometimes I may do 3 people in an evening, other times I won’t do any for a while. Partially, it’s because I’m crazy busy with work some times, but sometimes, I’m just plain lazy – do forgive. If you’re desperate for me to critique you immediately, check out step 5 above to find out how you can skip to the top of the queue.

The boring bits

By following the steps above, you give me a non-exclusive license to use your 3 photos as illustration images to a photo critique, if your particular critique somehow works well as a separate article on Photocritic. I will not use your photos in any other circumstance without conferring with you first.

I will pick and choose which photographers to critique first – it’s not meant as an insult if yours sits there for a while while I pick off newer entries first – it may just be that I haven’t got much useful to say about your photos because they already are perfect, or perhaps I’m struggling to vocalise what I like / what I would improve about your particular photos. Don’t take it personally!

Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II
Photo: Portrait of Queen Elizabeth II by Photocritic.org on Flickr  

Photo Critiques Competed so far

You don’t have to submit your own photographs for critique, of course, it’s entirely possible to learn huge amounts about photography by reading good critiques of other photographer’s work, so here, I’ve collected the criticisms and praise I’ve done on Flickr so far:

Oct 8 ’09: solofotones - Man with Paper, Street performer and Juntos
Oct 8 ’09: MondoUNCSweater Weather, The Virgins and Cupcake.
Oct 1 ’09: ooomidgetmanoooPortrait 1 and Portrait 2
Oct 1 ’09: HoneyJarAutumn Leaves, Como Lake from Bellagio and Tulips
Jul 7 ’09: HeraldKAdmiration, Shadows and Irish Coastal Road
May 25 ’09: Jacob WightonAnts!, Flight of the Birds and Sneaking!
May 1 ’09: Jack Makio Ugandan Mother and Child, Dasiy and Plazma light
May 1 ’09: JeffThe Remarkables and Milford Road
Apr 28 ’09: Jack FusselSpeckled, Bar Bar Bana and Stunning.
Apr 27 ’09: MrSimbolManila by the bay, Business as Usual and High and Dry
Apr 26 ’09: PerHeavy Lifting, Bench and Martin Luther King Memorial.
Apr 26 ’09: Ilan(Final) Rest, Man and Together and Alone II
Apr 26 ’09: MarkHoly Trinity Silhouette, The Long Drive Home and Autumn
Apr 25 ’09: AdricvJean-Claude, de Haiti, Puppet Shop and Moving Sculpture
Apr 25 ’09: Gary KurtzPhoto 1, Photo 2 and Photo 3

There is also a hyper-exclusive invite-only Flickr group where you can see some of the photos I’ve critiqued, called, imaginatively, Critiqued by Photocritic.


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

Recovering lost images from a memory card

Some photos are less valuable than others - but if yours are a matter of life and death (say, you lost someone's wedding photos), then get professionals involved!

The biggest ‘Oh… Shit’ feeling I’ve ever had on a photo job was when I had a rush-job: Press deadline was at 5pm, and I had to photograph an event at 3pm. The event was meant to last until 4pm, which would give me half an hour journey time back to the office, half an hour of Photoshopping… Tight, but doable. Then the worst thing imaginable happened: The event was delayed in starting, and my time was ticking away.

When I finally got in the taxi on my way back, I decided to clean out all the photos I knew I wasn’t going to use from the memory card, using the camera itself, so I could spend less time downloading and sorting, and more time just fixing it, so we could drop in the images and get the magazine to print.

I selected a batch of photos. “keep that one, lose that one, keep, keep, lose, keep, that’ll do, Format. Yes, of course I want to format. Yes. Confirm.”. I sat back in the cab, mentally going through what I had to do when I made it back to the office. Then it suddenly hit me.. ‘Format?’ Shit! No! Surely not… NOOOO!!!!

Here’s what to do if you are as big a plum as I am… 

The first rule of data recovery

If you fear something Bad might have happened, take your memory card out of the camera immediately, and stop using it. (Click on pic for bigger version on Flickr)

If you fear something Bad might have happened, take your memory card out of the camera immediately, and stop using it.

It has happened many of us: that ‘oh, no…’ feeling that occurs when you realise that you have just lost your pictures on your memory card. The good thing is that all is not lost and there are some ways to get that data back. We are going on a mission called ‘saving our asses’ and here is what we will need to make this a successful mission.

Once you have lost data on a memory card you need to quarantine that card and stop using it immediately.

I know I wrote that in bold, but let’s repeat it, because it’s the single most important thing you’ll learn from this article:

If you lose data on a memory card, take it out of your camera, and do not use it for anything else.

You may have to exhaust different options with that card to try to recover those photos so don’t keep adding pictures to it. Continuing to use the card can be detrimental to you actually recovering those photos.

How are images deleted from a card?

 

Image deletion operations – and, indeed, formatting a card – is normally not what most people think of as ‘proper’ deletion. Instead, you’re merely re-setting the file allocation table. Imagine your memory card as a chest of drawers which has 20 drawers, and can hold 20 photographs. When you take a photo, it’s put into one of the drawers, and you stick a little lable, like IMG_1234.RAW on the front of the drawer. It’s safe there. When you need it, you open the drawer, and you take the picture out.

When you delete a photo, something interesting happens: The photo isn’t removed from the drawer, all your camera does, is to peel the label off the front of the drawer. That means that this drawer is now ‘free space’, so if you had a full set of drawers, and ‘delete’ three photos, you now have 17 full drawers, and three ‘empty’ ones. When you take a new photo, your camera puts the photo into one of the free drawers, on top of the old photo.

Your old photo doesn’t disappear off the memory card until a new photo is put on top of the old one. Even if your card reads ‘empty’, all the old photos are still there, just not easily accessible.

Recovering data from your memory card

I was half-way around the world (Well, 1,400 miles into my motorbike tour of Europe) when I took this photo - while the picture itself isnt that unique, it represents a fond memory for me - Id be gutted if I had lost it, but I was able to recover it off my memory card. Phew. (Click on pic for bigger version on Flickr)

I was half-way around the world (Well, 1,400 miles into my motorbike tour of Europe) when I took this photo - while the picture itself isn't that unique, it represents a fond memory for me - I'd be gutted if I had lost it, but I was able to recover it off my memory card. Phew.

Lost data recovery operations happen with some type of third party software, in fact this is probably the method you are going to use to retrieve your data. There is a problem though, which software option should you purchase?

There are literally hundreds of options to choose from in this area, both paid and free choices. It would be close to impossible to tell you exactly which one is the best for you, because the focus of the programs can vary. Depending on how you lost your photos that could determine which product will be best suited to solve your problem. However before you go out and purchase a product make sure you take these steps:

Try a demo version first – Many programs (like the very popular Photo Rescue, which is available for both Mac and Windows) will allow you to use a trial version before you have to purchase a full version. It is strongly recommended that you test the trial version with your camera and with your specific problem: For these types of software, the trial software will usually show you which images could be recovered with the full version of the software.

Leaving it to the professionals

Some photos are less valuable than others - but if yours are a matter of life and death (say, you lost someone's wedding photos), then get professionals involved!

Some photos are less valuable than others - but if yours are a matter of life and death (say, you lost someone's wedding photos), then get professionals involved!

Professional data recovery is many orders of magnitude more expensive than doing it yourself, but it’s incredible what can be recovered…

And if your photos are truly invaluable (losing the photos as a wedding photographer, for example, could prove hideously expensive if you get sued by the couple as a result… Which has been known to happen, and this is why there is separate wedding photography insurance out there), you might have to find a local professional service (try googling for it).

If you have to go down this route, go to the corner shop and buy some beans and toast off the internet, because if you have to get someone to manually pick the card apart and read the chips inside your card directly, you’d not going to be able to afford to eat anything else anytime soon – I once helped someone find a data recovery service, and they paid over £3,500 to get a dead hard-drive resuscitated for long enough to copy it over to a fresh drive. On that note – when did you last back-up your photos?


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

How to organise your own photo exhibit

Picture 3

A year ago, the Oxford Flickr Group, a group of slightly geeky amateur photographers, were sitting around a table in a pub somewhere in Oxford. This is not at all unusual, but the difference was that, on this occasion, they decided that it’d be a marvelous idea to hold an exhibition. None of them had had any real experience of organising or taking part in an exhibition but hell, why not give it a go?

Jump ahead to the present day, a year later, and their exhibition is about to open. So how they get this far? How on earth do you go about organising this sort of thing from scratch? Anna Badley explains…

The Big idea

We hold regular photo meets and pub social meets in Oxford, and at one of these meets it turned out we’d missed the deadline for the annual Artweeks event that takes place locally – so we decided that we’d go it alone. We’re quite an active social group, there are probably 40 or so people who turn up to the meet ups so we thought it might be worth a go. That was about 12 months ago.

The first step was finding out where we might be able to stage the exhibition as that would determine the space, how many pictures people could hang and how much that might cost per person. We found a helpful bar/restaurant/gallery that suited our informal group better than a very formal space, and worked out that we could hang 30 fairly large pictures in the space they had – so, 30 exhibitors.

The next step was to find out who in the Group might be interested in exhibiting. There are around 1,500 members at the moment and we had no idea how many of those might be actually located in Oxford and interested in putting in a picture. We thought we’d get loads of people expressing an interest who would then drop out things really got going, but that didn’t happen. Also rather surprising was that quite a few of the final 30 had never been along to any of the meet ups and we had no idea who they were – we’d never met them. This did make us a little nervous at first; what if they didn’t pay up? What if they didn’t turn up with a picture?

The plan takes shape

The poster for the Flickr exhibit in Oxford

The poster for the Flickr exhibit in Oxford (click on the image to see it full-size)

By the end of March this year we were pretty much set on what we were doing, we’d got our 30 exhibitors, and 5 organisers (not quite sure how they were elected, it just sort of happened).

We had a bit of a break in early Summer then got the money in from the majority of the exhibitors during July and August. That was far less of a hassle than we’d imagined it might be, but apart from putting the money down on the venue not a lot else happened over the Summer months.

The exhibitors had a theme to work to; we wanted to show a different side of Oxford to the one the tourists see when they visit. So we’d asked everyone to try and show their own perspective on the city, and tried to give them as much freedom as possible.

Oh my God it’s only 8 weeks away, how did that happen?

With only 2 months left before opening night, there was a sudden flurry of activity. A summit was held with the five organisers and a horribly large task list of things that needed checking, fixing, chasing, designing and printing – the whole lot.

By the time the summit had finished, we’d divided up the tasks; collecting the high res jpg files to put in the accompanying book, keeping in touch with the venue, writing the press release, designing the map for the photos to be placed on and setting up the email address were some of the more major ones. Somewhere along the line the exhibition also got a title – Made In Oxford – and suddenly we were almost ready to go!

One of the group also had a tame graphic designer who immediately set to work on making us a fantastic poster. It was definitely worth having someone professional do this because as soon as we saw how good it looked it was pretty clear none of us had the design skills to even get close to that.

Final tweaks

The Made in Oxford book is available to purchase via Photobox for £21

The Made in Oxford book is available to purchase via Photobox for £21

Finally, we arranged a meet up (mainly as we were really intrigued as to who our mystery exhibitors were) and had a frankly scary meet-up that felt more like a board meeting than a group of photographers! Thankfully we managed to fix that problem later in the evening with a few ales, once all the important information had been dished out.

The book was proof-read by three of us (not taking any chances there) and is now available to buy from Photobox!

When we first looked at all the pictures together it became apparent that the majority of photos had nobody, or just a lone figure, in them. Many were taken at night or very early in the morning. Even the usual tourist traps and colleges look deserted which is not something you ever see during the day. It was really exciting seeing a completely different side to the city and we were happy that the theme we’d chosen had actually been okay to work with.

So we’re currently four days before opening night. We’ve had plenty of local press interest and the posters are starting to appear round town. We have 29 pictures ready to go and the last one is almost there so it looks like everything is ready to roll.

Once all the pictures are safely hanging on the wall in the venue we’re intending to get the beers in and sit back to enjoy what’s been achieved, and maybe even start thinking about next year’s theme – well, maybe not quite yet.

The exhibition is open 7 days a week to the general public from 3rd-31st October 09, at the Jam Factory, Hollybush Row, Oxford, UK OX1 1HU (map).

Hang on a minute. What on earth is the Oxford Flickr Group?

We’re an offshoot of the online photo-sharing site, flickr.com. We love taking photos, finding interesting things to shoot here where we live and welcoming new people to our city. There is normally a degree of photographic geekery happening but it’s certainly not a pre-requisite for joining in; we don’t care if you use your iPhone, a dinky little point-and-shoot camera or a fancy-pants film SLR with all the lenses. We certainly don’t compare mega pixels (okay, most of us don’t do that).

There’s no charge for joining and we’re a friendly bunch so if you’re interested in saying hello, come and find us on Flickr!

Oh, and of course if you’re not in Oxford, UK, there are loads of other local Flickr groups all over the world. If there isn’t one where you are, nothing’s stopping you from starting your own – get busy!

This article was written by the inimitable Anna Badley (Flickr / website), who in the past has written the Beginning in Portraiture article here on Photocritic. If you would like to get involved and write a guest article, drop me an e-mail!


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

Insure your camera stuff!

Broken Camera

Insurance for your camera equipment – I can barely think of a less exciting topic, to be honest. In fact, I highly recommend you skip this post, because it’s going to be hideously boring. Before you to, though, I’d like for you to think about one little thing:

“If your camera vanishes today, can you afford to buy a new one?”

If the answer’s yes, great, go look at amazing photography to spark your inspiration. If not, read on…  

 

You’ve probably insured your house, the contents of your house, your health (if you’re unfortunate enough to live in a country where they don’t take care of you properly, that is), your car, and your pets.

Why do we insure all these things? It’s simple – because if you don’t, the life you’ve spent so much time and money building up is only one minor disaster away from slipping away from you. Yeah, that is probably the most emo thing I’ve ever written on my blog. So sue me (I’ve got indemnity insurance!).

I know for a fact that people reading this blog do all sorts of different things with their camera equipment. Some of you work as professional photographers, some of you don’t know which way is up on a camera – but most of you do own cameras which you use a lot.

Insurance as part of your home policy

Truth is, though, that photography is one of those hobbies where you, by its very nature, take your equipment out on the road with you: there’s only so much you can do in your living room or kitchen, after all. If your camera stuff is at home, it’s probably covered by your home insurance (but not always…) – but what happens when you venture into the world to capture slices of time on your film or imaging chips?

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Have you insured your camera equipment?

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Insurance is really only about one thing: peace of mind. It is the type of product you buy and hope you never have to use because, well, it means something bad has happened. When it comes to photography insurance, there are a few ways you can go about insuring your equipment. Some provide more protection than others but you need to decide what will work best for you.

Watching life go by

If you do a lot of street photography, you may wish to take out extra camera insurance, because the risk of your camera getting damaged or stolen is much higher. Photo by Photocritic on Flickr

When considering your options the first determining factor is the way you use your camera. If you are a professional user and are getting paid for your services then you need to consider a commercial policy. If photography is your hobby then a homeowners or rental policy may be enough but there are some limitations there. When you add photography equipment to a homeowners / contents insurance policy it will typically cover if the equipment is stolen or there is a fire in your home. Coverage outside of the home may or may not be included so you need to check your policy to be sure of the coverage you have. Also if you drop your camera or damage it yourself then this type of policy may not be all that useful.

For a higher level of peace you can add a ‘floater’ (an especially insured item as part of the main policy) to your homeowners / content insurance policy. Floaters range in price but are relatively inexpensive and will generally protect your equipment against all types of calamities, both fire and theft – and sometimes even accidental damage you may cause to the camera.

 

Dedicated camera insurance

Broken Camera

It doesn't bear thinking about, but it's better to consider insurance before you might need it than after...

If you are not a homeowner or don’t have renter’s / content insurance, then another option can be to get personal camera insurance. This type of insurance for your camera is like every other insurance policy offering a varying amount of coverage limits, deductibles and premiums.

 

There’s a lot of disagreement among photographers whether this type of insurance is worth it – Insurance especially for your camera equipment is usually quite expensive, and often assumes that you are a professional photographer – or at least that you are making money with your photographic equipment.

Some argue that it is not worth it, yet other photographers will say it is highly necessary. What side of the argument you fall on really depends on you and the value of the equipment you have, how often you replace your equipment anyway, and how high-risk your photographic behaviour is: If you do a lot of street photography in the evening, you’re at high risk; if your camera rarely leaves your studio, then perhaps you’re less likely to get mugged (but nothing stops you from being butter-fingered, of course)

 

Using equipment that doesnt look as expensive (like a smaller 50mm prime, instead of a big L-series zoom lens) can help you stay out of trouble

Using equipment that doesn't look as expensive (like a smaller 50mm prime, instead of a big L-series zoom lens) can help you stay out of trouble

If you decide to go this route then your goal should be to choose the limits that fit your specific needs. Also make sure you identify all of the types of things the policy covers, especially things like liquid or water damage. Ask about what other things you need to be insured. For example if you do any type of underwater photography, it may invalidate your insurance, or you may have to pay a higher premium for your insurance to apply. Again knowing your needs and how you plan to use your camera will go a long way in to determining if this is the right option for you.

Camera policies are not entirely dissimilar to car policies; At first, it’ll be very expensive, but the cover drops in price after a few renewals, as you get a no-claims bonus – some companies offer up to a 80% bonus built up over 5 years, but of course building up a bonus can take quite a long time, and if you think you’re at very low risk of anything happening to your camera, then perhaps you don’t need a policy in the first place.

When looking for companies to purchase from like most people you can search online and find a variety of options. If you belong to any photography organizations, clubs or groups you can always see if they provide any type of group discounts that you may be able to capitalise on – also check the back of photography magazines, there’s always some good offers in there!

But…

Here’s to sincerely hoping that whether or not you have your camera covered, that you never end up in a situation where you have to use – or wish you had – your insurance cover.


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

Under-water photography

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If you thought photography out in the open air was tricky, you’ve got a surprise coming – Underwater photography represents one of the most challenging and specialized segments in the photography world. It’s fun, it’s creative, and it surrounds you with water, which only has one purpose: To ruin your expensive pride-and-joy photography equipment!

Two thirds of the world is covered by water, and while much of it is quite boring and un-photogenic, there are still vast opportunities to capture what is happening beneath the surface. There is a combination of equipment and tecnique required to make this type of photography work for you, include choosing the right camera, making sure it stays safe from water, and finding some way of lighting it all.

Picking a camera

Vivitar underwater cameraWhen searching for cameras, knowing your budget and the types of photos you want to take will go a long way in determining the right option for you.

Photo, right: Vivitar underwater camera by Anetz on Flickr. This photo also shows the ‘sports finder’, which is much more useful than a viewfinder once you’re underwater

Your options will change depending on whether you want this to be a vacation hobby or you want to become a gadget-tastic underwater photographer with all the bells, whistles, and a bathysphere with an espresso machine in the corner. Don’t get me wrong, underwater photography can become very expensive, very quickly so it is imperative that you identify what your goal is.

NikonosImage, left: Underwater Nikon Nikonos-V with 35/2.5 by Mikesub on Flickr

If you just want to dip your toe in, you could actually use a cheap, single-use disposable underwater camera… It won’t give you the greatest quality images but it gives you some photos to show friends, family, and Flickr-admirers back home.

In selecting the right camera there are a billion options to choose from. More or less. Probably less. Both digital and film cameras can each perform well underwater however the major disadvantage for film cameras is that you can only shoot one roll of film at a time. Having to swim back up to change the roll of film is infuriating, to say the least, so stick with the megapixels for photography zen.

Naked Lady
Naked Lady by Arno Gourdol on Flickr

If you are a beginner than a point and shoot may be a good place to start. Try to get a cameras with a nicely sized LCD screen which will simplify your picture taking experience – don’t plan to be able to look through your viewfinder much, because between your diving equipment and your (hopefully) water-proof enclosure, it’s not going to be much use. Whatever you decide make sure the camera matches what you are trying to accomplish.

Also, be aware that some cameras marketed as ‘water proof’ may work when they are wet but they may not be designed to withstand the high water pressure in underwater photography – as with most things, you generally get what you pay for, so a £99 waterproof digital camera probably isn’t. Water-proof, that is.

Keeping it dry

Miss Underwater
Miss Underwater by Kal.LKL on Flickr

To prepare your camera for underwater use you will need housing. Housing provides a waterproof encasement for your camera to dwell in making it able to function underwater. As there are a variety of cameras you will find a wide load of different housing options available ranging in price from $100 for one to cover your pocket-sized compact jobbie, to going in to the thousands of dollars for more professional units.

Many of today’s cameras come with manufacturer-designed housing units, however they may not be as reliable as speciality third party options. Make sure the housing you decide to use will support the water pressure at the depths you want to take your pictures.

When considering housing you should consider the controls on your camera. Some housing will limit access to (some of) the controls on your camera, so look for models that will support all of the functions you want to use on your camera when taking your pictures.

Lights, camera…

UnderwaterOne of the biggest challenges in underwater photography is lighting. As a beginner venturing into this new world you may want to start taking pictures using just the built in flash on your camera.

Photo, right: Underwater by Sagicel, on Flickr

Once you become comfortable taking pictures underwater then it is highly recommended that you purchase an external strobe light. Strobes give you more control over the way you bring light to the subject you are shooting.

With the improved light you can highlight various qualities and details that you want to bring out of your subject. You also can angle light toward or away from the subject. By angling away you can help keep backscatter, which are reflected particles in the water, from cluttering your shot.

Dive right in

Underwater in the Pool
Underwater in the Pool by Brian Marshall on Flickr

As you can see the options are great when it comes to underwater photography from cameras, housing and lighting, not to mention other accessories we didn’t even mention. Walking into this blindly can be an expensive proposition so start slowly and build your way up but most importantly know what you want to accomplish. Since it is both a scuba diving and photography activity rolled into one, make sure you include the time and cost of scuba diving lessons into your learning curve and your budget.

Some scuba schools also hold photography classes for beginners and might rent / loan you some equipment to get started, so that’s worth a look before you splash the kids’ college fund on something you might not enjoy as much as you thought!

Lastly, have fun and enjoy the underwater world waiting for you.


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Photoshop Makeovers

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So there you are, taking rather fantastic photos, and then, one day, you realise that everyone else seems to be getting better results. Unfair? Possibly. Or perhaps they’re just handier in Photoshop. Like my old friend Maxwell. I recently came across three of his photo-shopped portraiture sessions (one, two, three), and was rather impressed.

For the purpose of this article, let’s shelve any reservations you might have about the ethics of photoshopping the hell out of a portrait or fashion image (you’ve all seen this video, right?), and have a look at how it can be done. As a wise old man once told me, only if you have the skills to do something do you have the skills to choose not to do it…

Maxwell graciously accepted the challenge to talk us through how he edits his portraits, and is using a photo of himself to go through the process… Take it away Max!  

 

Step one – process the raw

step1My first step with every photograph, including this one, is to adjust the raw file to an exposure and look that I like. Normally it’s a little more contrasted and artistic than this one, but since we are going for a simple beauty shot (or as close as we can get with me!) I want an image that is pretty balanced and a little flat.

When doing this retouching process, my last step is always to photoshop the image as I would normally (i.e. change contrast, colour, detail, blur, etc.) and because every step I do that loses information in the image I highly recommend waiting ’till the end for any artistic choices.

Once I have that, it’s on the manipulation!

Step two – the healing brush and the spot healing brush.

step2At this point I like to get rid of all of the really obvious blemishes. I don’t get too nit picky, seeing as I do all the fine tuning later on, but make sure to get all the big ones (pimples, moles, unwanted facial hair, lines under eyes).

To do this I jump back and forth between the healing brush and the spot healing brush, the difference – the spot healing brush tool samples for you, whereas the healing brush tool you select the sample area.

I find that usually I have to play around a bit determining which one to use for specific things. In my experience the spot healing brush works great for smaller blemishes, such as pimples and moles, and the healing brush works better for thing like wrinkles.

Usually I use the spot healing brush until it stops working and then switch in order to have more control.

Step three – eliminating the double chin.

step3Seeing as I was teaching myself as I went along, this was probably the hardest part for me. I tried a bunch of things before realizing that transform was the easiest option. I use transform a lot for the whole process actually.

I made a selection from just below my mouth to about halfway down my neck. I used transform to stretch the selection upwards to have the double chin line align with my actual jawline. I then created a layer mask and used a very soft edged brush to paint my chin back in and to get rid of harsh lines around my selection.

Effectively this step is pulling up the double chin to hide it behind the first one.

Step four – manipulating all my facial features.

step4Here comes the fun. I made five or six different layers in this step, one for each facial feature we want to change. For me (and most other people, I suppose) we are going to want to change them all. I made a layer for my mouth (and surrounding area), my nose (and surrounding area), one for each eye (and surrounding… you get it) and a layer for each side of my face.

This step is very similar to the previous, in that it is all transform and masks. I made my eyes larger and changed the placement, made my nose longer and thinner, and made my mouth larger and moved down a bit. I also changed the shapes of these features a little, using the warp transform option. (cmd + T = transform and ctrl-clicking or right-clicking gives you the transform options).

The warp option is very useful when you want to pinch in just part of your selection or change one side, etc. I used the warp option to pull in the sides of my face, in order to make them appear even and slim my face a little. I then used masks to paint in the original image around the edges of the selections, once again to get rid of lines. I then used all these tools to tweak what was left of my face (stronger jaw thinner neck, etc).

Step five – skin.

step5I know there are a lot of ways to smooth skin, and I alternate between a lot of them. For this image I combined a bunch. First, I merged all my layers into a new one (shift+ opt+ cmnd+ e), duplicated it and applied a surface blur to the duplicate layer. I don’t remember my surface blur settings, but it’s really a personal taste thing (I like to still be able to see pores). I also paint out the facial features in a layer mask when I use surface blur, because I don’t want it to touch the sharpness of the eyes and mouth. I then created three new blank layers, one for darks, one for mid tones, and one for light areas.

I used the eyedropper tool to select a good colour to represent the dark tones and painted very subtly (maybe 5-10% opacity) over the shadowed areas of my face. I did this for mid tones and lights also. The reason I made three different layers is because I wanted to be able to adjust the opacity of each tone separately. The image here looked too fake for me, but had nicely smoothed out all of my skin. I wanted to bring some of the highlights and shadows back, so I copied the layer underneath the surface blur layer to the top of my palette.

I changed the layer blend mode to luminosity and dropped the layer opacity down to 38%. Again this would be a personal aesthetic moment, but 38% looked good to me.

Step six – adding depth.

step6At this point the image looked too flat for me so I selected my highlights (cmnd-click a channel) and created a curves layer set to screen @ %40 to bring out the highlights more and give more depth.

Then comes the dodging and burning. The way I do that is not with the dodge and burn tool; I create an overlay layer and use a really faint (<10% opacity) soft brush to dodge burn.

Black for darkening, white for lightening. I always do this on two different layers so that I may go back and change the opacity of them afterwards.

I also use this method to get rid of any remaining overly dark or light areas.

Step seven – cleaning up the edges.

There are many ways to do this. I jumped back and forth between the healing brush and just using a soft paintbrush to create and sculpt the outline of my hair.

Step eight – colour.

step8Again, everyone has their methods.

When adjusting skin tones I use a hue/saturation layer to adjust the saturation of the yellow and red tones until I get something I like.

Also to smooth out the colour I use the eyedropper to select the skin colour I want, create a solid layer of that colour and change the blend mode to colour.

Turn down the opacity or paint in the layer mask to change the strength and affected area.

Step nine – finishing touches and artistic processing.

I used the same transform and mask technique to apply some finished touches at this point. I elongated my neck and thinned it more as well as changed the size and shape of my mouth a little.

I did some more dodging and burning using some curves layers set to screen and multiply (I alter my dodge and burn layer using the blend if slider in the layer menu when you double click a layer), in order to only have it apply to the high- or low- lights of the image.

The final step was to merge it all together on a new layer and unsharp mask it a little. And there you have it, a beautified me!

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See a higher-resolution version of this image here (or, y’know, click on the image)

About Maxwell

Maxwell Lander is a queer photo-based digital artist and emerging graphic and website designer currently living in Toronto, Canada. Maxwell has been immersed in artistic photography for many years and is constantly seeking out new ways to express a passion for contemporary creativity, including and engulfing fascination with the abilities of the digital photograph and the control/choices it provides photographers.

As one of Canada’s leading emerging artists, Maxwell has exhibited works across Ontario and is continuously developing new photographic series. With a string of awards and accreditations – most recently Runner-Up in the emerging talent category of the 2008-2009 Nikon Photo Contest International and a publication in Photolife Magazine’s emerging artist special issue (September 2009) – Maxwell participates in the political and social sphere of the Toronto artistic community, contributing to the ever-changing art world.

Maxwell’s photography is intended to draw a thin line between beauty and vulgarity, restriction and hedonism, decency and decadence – to expose them all as interconnected and subjective experiences.

In addition to focusing on personal photographic art, Maxwell is available for commercial hire as a photographer, graphic designer, and web designer. To learn more, visit maxwellander.ca, check him out on Flickr, or follow @maxwellander on Twitter!

The man behind the blog.

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The other day, I received an e-mail Stephan D, one of my readers, with a load of questions about me and my photography career. I occasionally get questions about who I am and why I run Photocritic, so I figured that I might just do a post about the man behind the blog, as it were.

What photographer(s) inspires you to create images?

There are a lot of photographers out there who really do it for me. I’m particularly fond of Philip of Lithium Picnic fame, and Ilyssa (isky on dA) also has a beautiful portfolio of photos. I love collecting my fave photos on Flickr (as you can see in the side-bar of this post).

To be honest, I take inspiration from lots of different photographers. The ‘best of’ or ‘most popular’ images on Flickr and DeviantArt are always a good place to star the flow of creative juices. Of course, Earthshots is also a great starting point… 

 

How did you get your photography business started?

I got quite lucky, actually. What happened was that I just went and picked up a lot of free and paid-for local magazines in the city where I lived, and I started calling them and sending e-mails. One of them needed a photographer soon after, and suddenly I had a regular flow of income. After that, I continued adding more clients, and finally ended up with a thriving freelance photography business.

In the end, my business failed because I got a little bit too sure of myself, took my eyes off the ball, and lost a couple of clients to no fault but my own (I lost some important photos once, which put me on rocky ground, and I completely failed to show up to a big photoshoot another time – both completely unforgivable sins as a photographer, and ones I’ve learned a lot from). Personally, I blame being scatterbrained, but in real terms, if you know that’s one of your weaknesses, you just have to find a system to deal with it: Carry an alarm clock with you, send yourself e-mails, or be better about diary-keeping. And suchlike :)

What type of equipment do you use?

I’ve used Canon equipment since I started as a photographer – more by chance than by design: My dad’s Canon A1 is still going strong, and I just sort of stuck with it. Throughout the years, I’ve had a EOS D60, an EOS 10D, an EOS 20D, an EOS 30D, and EOS 40D. I used a 300D and a 350D back-up cameras for a while, and shot with a Canon EOS 1N HS when I was still shooting with film. These day,

I’ve had a whole series of different lenses as well, but the Canon EF 50/1.4 lenses remains one of my favourites (check out some photos I’ve taken with that lens, if you need convincing :) – if you haven’t tried a prime lens, you really should. But then, I could ramble on about that for ages (in fact, I already have…). I’ve also got a 70-200mm f/2.8 which I’m incredibly fond of, especially for concerts (you can see some of my concert shots on flickr, and I did an article about how I shoot them, too), and a couple of wide-angle lenses. Apart from these, I frequently rent lenses such as tilt-shift and specialist macro lenses: Owning them myself is just too bloody expensive.

Having said all of that, I don’t believe that the equipment you own is all that important – it’s what you do with it, and as long as you’re comfortable with your equipment, you’re on your way. It’s been said before, but it can’t harm to repeat it: A photographer with vision and a disposable camera can come back with better result that someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing, but carry the latest bells-and-whistles D-SLR…

What type of lighting situations do you enjoy most?

I really love working with natural lighting, but studio work can be a lot of fun as well – it all depends on what you’re trying to do. It’s important to experiment with different types of lighting.

The most important part is that, through experimentation, I’ve come up with a style that I’m comfortable with, but I also notice that my tastes and whims change a lot. I used to do a lot of landscapes, but haven’t taken a landscape photo for a long time. I had a phase of doing macro photography (which resulted in my book), but I have barely looked at a macro photograph since. Recently, I’ve had an interest in doing more portraiture work – a genre where I feel I still have a lot to learn – so perhaps that’ll be my next experiment into lighting: some studio lighting might well be my next investment!

What background do you have in photography?

I’m entirely self-taught, but I’ve done a lot of reading and experimenting to get the technical and creative skills that I feel I need. I was like that in school as well, however: Having a teacher drone on at me drove me bonkers, but if they somehow managed to spark an interest, I’d be on the internet or in the library, researching the topic well beyond I was supposed to.

I don’t really see any harm in being self-taught, as long as you’re creative, inquisitive and thorough.

If you could pick another career than photography, what would it be and why?

Heeh, interestingly, I haven’t worked as a photographer full-time for years. The past few years, I’ve worked in publishing as an editor, I worked in television for a while, but I’m now back to life as self-employed, working as a writer. I’m currently working another book about photography (here’s my first one)

So I guess, to answer your question, I do have another career, and I like running for Photocritic, of course, but it seems I haven’t quite got enough time to do all it takes to keep the hamster wheel spinning ’round here – nonetheless, it’s good fun!


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The International Exhibition

xao

The internet has a funny way of erasing the feeling of the world being of any useful size at all – I regularly get visits from nearly 190 different countries, for example. In an exchange with the lovely (Swedish) Håkan Dahlström recently, I mentioned that his funky-looking photograph XAO wouldn’t have looked out of place in an East London wine bar. We joked about a bit, but I was suddenly thinking: What is stopping us, photographers, from creating ad-hoc photography exhibits all over the world?

So, in an epic effort of internet crowd-sourcing, I want to be the first curator in the entire world who creates a truly international art exhibition: The International Exhibition, or TIE for short.  

 

To participate in TIE, it’s really easy, go on Flickr, find a photograph you love (if you’re struggling, you haven’t been looking hard enough, but there are some suggestions below), print it out (or, even better, have it printed out using a service like Photobox in the UK or AdoramaPix in the US (thanks, @JohnMilleker) ), stick it on your wall, and take a photo of it. Then stick the photo on Flickr, with the tag ‘TheInternationalExhibition’. Then, if you want, stick a comment on this post :)

XAO by Håkan Dahlström, for TIE
XAO by Håkan Dahlström, for TIE

Struggling to find a photo which would fit on your wall? Flickr’s Explore is usually full of wall-worthy photographs, or you can go look at the photos of all of your friends (or all of my friends, for that matter), or if you really want to enlarge my already unnecessarily buoyant ego, one of my own photos.

Let’s see what a big group of awesome photographers can come up with together, but I sense it might be pretty awesome.


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Computers for Photographers

new-macbook

If you’ve dabbled in computing much, you’ve probably come across Moore’s law – basically; as Wikipedia so succinctly puts it, “Since the invention of the integrated circuit in 1958, the number of transistors that can be placed inexpensively on an integrated circuit has increased exponentially, doubling approximately every two years”

All good and dandy, but recently something funny has happened – people seem to simply not need faster computers anymore. This is relevant to photographers, because there’s a parallel between computing and photography: Just like you eventually don’t need more megapixels in a camera (one group has gone as far as saying that 6mpx is all you need, and – with a few notable exceptions, I think I am inclined to agree), you eventually have all the speed you need from a computer.  

 

This one became clear to me when I started looking into replacing my now-3-year-old MacBook. It’s a black one, with a dual-core 2Ghz processor. It started its life as a 1GB/120GB configuration, but I since upgraded it to 4GB/250GB (an upgrade you can do today for about £70/$100). You know what’s odd? If you look at the current-spec 13-inch unibody MacBook Pro, it’s got essentially the same spec: 2.26 Ghz / 2GB / 160GB… I think Apple have realised what the rest of the world realised, too: Computers are finally Good Enough.

new-macbookSure, there are always groups of people who will perennially have an insatiable hunger for more processor cores, more memory, and more storage space; serious gamers, video editors, and scientists spring to mind – but even for the power-users (I do count myself as one), we’re starting to hit a plateau where it’s perfectly okay to own a 3-year-old computer. Which just messes with my brain; when I first started getting into computers, the second you bought one, it was out of date. I remember the first time I plonked down a serious amount of money on a new computer (before then, I’d always had hand-me-downs or I’d bought second-hand computers) – it was a Dell, which had a Pentium III, 600 Mhz. I’m telling you, it was the cream-of-the-crop, one of the fastest computers you could buy. It had a whopping 1GB of memory, too, which was insanely expensive, and made it incredibly fast indeed. Six months later, I found myself upgrading several of its components, and six months after that, again. And again. And again.

So I’m no longer a serious gamer (or indeed, a gamer at all – I moved to the place where I live now, about four months ago, and my poor Xbox has never been out of its box), but I am a pretty serious photographer. I run the CS3 suite by Adobe, and I take all my photographs in RAW format. It’s not that long ago that editing RAW photos was a huge chore which would take bloody ages, but with 4GB of memory (which is a trivial upgrade, both in DIY-skills and in monetary investment) is of huge help.

The thing that dawned on me the other day is that no, you no longer need the cutting edge of computer equipment to play with the big boys: while I love the design of the new MacBook Pros, i’d be spending the best part of a grand without actually upgrading my kit all that much: I’d still have to buy extra RAM and harddrive space to make the computer faster than the one I’ve got now.

So what do you recommend

I guess what I’m trying to say is that we’re in a very good place for photographers when it comes to computers: You don’t need a new, or even a fast computer to be able to edit your photos at a professional level – and the longer this plateau stays around, the cheaper computers are going to get. Which, again, is good news.

Of course, the real reason I wrote this rambly-rant of a blog post is so I have something to point people to when they ask what kind of computer they need to buy to be able to edit their photos properly; my answer is simple: Even the cheapest Dell computer will do the trick: Right now, you can pick up a Dell Inspiron with a 2.6 GHz dual-core processor, 3GB of memory, a 20-inch widescreen monitor, 320 Gb harddrive, optical mouse and built-in card-readers for under 375 quid. That, ladies and gentlemen, is a lot of computer for not-a-lot of money.

Specifically, however, I’d recommend you make sure you have enough memory (2GB should be enough, 4GB is plenty), and a screen which you like to work on – bigger is better, I’d recommend 19-inch or bigger. An optical mouse makes precision-work a little easier (I know a lot of photographers who buy expensive gaming mice for increased precision, but I think that’s probably a bit overkill), and beyond that, a copy of Photoshop (which will cost about the same as the computer outlined above, but is a must-have for anyone who is serious about photography), and you’re done.

So Haje, what is your set-up, then?

Thought you’d never ask. I use a MacBook 2Ghz / 4GB / 250GB hooked up to a Samsung 23-inch monitor and a Logitech LX710 wireless keyboard and mouse. Not technically part of the computer set-up is a set of nice studio monitor speakers and a Pioneer amp to play tunes – but I can’t work without music (right this very second, for example, I’m listening to a spot of Gatas Parlament, a Norwegian hip-hop group – if you want to take your aural stalking to a higher level, look me up on Last.fm), so the music bit of all of this is completely essential.

But ultimately, personally, I’d be perfectly happy with any laptop with an Apple logo on it, manufactured in the past 3-4 years or so.


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Nude self portraiture

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Taking photos of yourself has a certain under-tone of intimacy about it at the very least; but choosing to shed your clothes and do the same thing adds a whole new dimension to the experience.

One of my long-time readers, Brigitte, told me her approach to nude photography; She doesn’t share her photos with anyone, but decided to take them for her own sake. It made me think; I know that my blog is quite strongly in favour in sharing all your photos with the whole world, but perhaps that misses a little bit of the point; Who are we, in fact taking photos for? Anyway – that’s a topic for another post… Today, it’s Brigitte’s turn… 

 

Nude in front of (and behind) the lens

A few days ago I was reading articles on nude photography… and these took me down memory lane. When I was pregnant for the second time, I used to take a thorough look at myself everyday in the mirror and marvel at the way my body had changed. There is an immense softness in a pregnant woman’s curves which I find very appealing, and I knew from my first pregnancy that once the baby is born, it’s easy to forget the way you looked before.

This time, I very much wanted to be able to remember my whole life the way my body was right before I gave birth. Of course, I had lots of pictures taken by my family and friends, but it felt like cheating, by hiding some of the curves while emphasizing others. Most were not very becoming, either… these pictures were taken on the fly, showing me in whatever position I had deemed comfortable at the time, and I felt it was really unfair. To be totally honest, I’m pretty sure I’ve torn and thrown away the vast majority of these!

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Trusting others vs trusting yourself

I know lots of people can undress in front of a photographer they trust (Demi Moore, to name but one!), but I simply felt I could never do that, underwear or not, nine months pregnant or not. I did not trust anybody else’s look but mine on my body to take these pictures, not even my husband’s (OK, he’s a poor photographer anyway!), and I realized I would have to be both the photographer and the model.

pregnant-2I selected a plain white wall with a wooden door as the background for my pictures, no direct sunlight but no artificial light either, and set-up my Canon EOS 20D on a tripod. I made the necessary adjustments in terms of sensibility and focus, selected the B&W mode, and used the self-timer to take the pictures. Between each shot I practiced in front of a full length mirror… I wanted to be able to share these pictures with my children when they grow up, so I was determined to be as beautiful as possible (of course!), and if sensuality was permitted, I did not want these pictures to turn out erotic.

And that’s the best part. I know I may sound like a control freak, but I was the one who wanted these pictures, and I greatly appreciate the fact that I got to do them myself, without being subjected to anyone’s influence. In the end, all the decisions were mine, and if I had not liked the result, I could just have discarded all the pictures without any hesitations, regrets, or fear to offend the photographer.

Find out more!

Brigitte is a 34-year-old French lady who works as a translator and editor. You can find Brigitte’s blog on tequilas-secrets.com, with her photos in the, er, photos category. If you’re of the Twittering kind, she can be found on @Brigitte_Ba, as well.

The photos in this post are from iStockPhoto


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Publishing your own photo book

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A while ago, I was talking with my good friend Randy Kruzan, who told me he had self-published a book – or, as he likes to put it – how he made the transition from “being a fool with a camera to being a fool with a book”.

There’s a lot of things that go into creating your own book (I should know, I’ve helped friends and clients self-publish things in the past, and I’ve been published with my own stuff) – but the interesting thing is that a lot of the things that take time aren’t the things you’d think…

I managed to talk Randy into writing a guest article for me here on Photocritic, explaining how his book came about, and what you should do if you want your photos to end up as a coffee-table book yourself.

The beginning

I was in a rut. No, that’s too cliche. I was between myself… yeah, that’s pretty accurate. My creative needs were being stifled by day-to-day work as a software engineer. On top of that, I was doing more of the same freelancing and, I have to tell you, there’s only so much left brain activity I can take. My right brain was screaming “There must be something more!” and there was. Is? Whatever.

Dave Browne, a friend of mine, former co-worker and fellow photographer, recently came back from an 18 month trip around the world. Upon his return we started having coffee once a week when schedules permitted. It would be melodramatic to say this changed my life, but it definitely put things in perspective. Call it a shove in the right direction.

Discussing photography with him is always enlightening, more for me than he, I think. He told me he was working on a book that he was going to publish himself. I had been playing with the very same idea for months but never found the time nor motivation, until he brought his book the next time we met.

It was gorgeous! The photos were taken on his trip with a Diana (that’s a plastic camera you pay real camera prices for through Lomo). The paper and finish were top notch, the design and layout were complimentary and it truly equalled traditionally published books.

Cylinder Head
Cylinder Head by Randy Kruzan on Flickr

That was enough motivation, on the way home that night I decided to stop stalling. First I had to wrap up open freelance projects and stop taking more. Then I could get to work on my book. A couple of weeks later I was free(er).

After seeing Dave’s book, I realized mine could be better than I had been thinking about. Knowing I would never be good enough for myself (too critical), I asked him if he would help out with my book. He agreed and now I had an editor as well as someone to handle design and guide me through layout.

The middle

My theme was to be loss and abandonment, things left behind. I had several dozen photos fitting this theme taken over the last 4 years. Some black and white, some color and taken with two different cameras. Geographically they were split between Washington State and Illinois. Overall a nice smattering of styles, composition and colors.

I wanted a landscape oriented book with full bleed, so I cleared out any photos in portrait orientation. Next to go were any with focus or other technical problems. Eventually it filtered down to 32 photos. Now I could send them to Dave and get the editing and layout process underway. This is where it really pays to have someone you can collaborate with. Another eye, unbiased and critical, is invaluable.

We whittled those 32 photos down further. Some were just too bland, too flat. Others were great pictures but against the bulk of the remaining lot, didn’t fit anymore. Here I learned another lesson, to be flexible, to change direction if that’s where the photos are leading you.

In my case, the theme of abandonment and loss had transformed into something a little different. The majority of photos I started out with were structures that were either abandoned or left to fall apart, but this didn’t stand out right away until we started cutting shots. The stack I was left with wasn’t saying loss any longer, it was saying something about persistence in the face of ruin. Yeah, these things were left alone or abandoned or simply neglected, but looking at them I could see that they were also surviving.

Mill Series no.6
Mill Series #6 by Randy Kruzan on Flickr

By the end of a few rounds of this, I was down to less than 14 pictures. With a revised theme in mind and to add more bulk (you’ll see why that’s funny later), I set out to shoot some new photos, and reshoot some I had liked originally but rejected for technical reasons. While I did this, Dave began working on my layout and design. Out of another 50 or so new pics, 12 made my first cut. 7 were finally selected and sent to Dave, who approved. My count was now up to 21 and he had picked one for the cover. It wasn’t the one I had picked but after the title was added, I capitulated. It looked right. Dave is always right, ask him.

The end

All that was left was for me to write up the copy for my title and copyright page and an introduction, then it was up to him to tie it all together. We were almost done.

Almost. (Since you’ve already been reading this in a little voice in your head, go ahead and insert snickering laughter here)

In the last few weeks before we finished, I waffled on the title. Nothing I was coming up with fit, and every change meant a revision to part of the intro. If that wasn’t bad enough, I had second thoughts about some of the images. I wanted to pull some, add others. I realized I was still fighting for the old theme and kept trying to find ways to work that in somehow. That realization (and Dave telling me to leave it alone) was enough to get me over the last little hurdle and just give in to it. The final book is about things at the end of their useful lives, their defiance in the face of decomposition and neglect. I chose “finis” which is the temporal end. I subtitled it “Exploring the end”, revised my into copy and we were done.

He delivered, unintentionally, the final assets on my birthday and two days later my book was in manufacture. I used the same company he did, Viovio, since I had already seen the quality first hand. Nine days later I had the first print in my hands, and I have to say, I love it. With 21 images and the copy pages, it only comes to 12 paper pages! I laughed out loud when I opened the box and saw that. It didn’t occur to me during production that I was only going to have a 12 page book. It doesn’t matter. Dave did a great job, I am really happy with the pics and I think it’s a neat little book. Literally.

That’s my story about how a fool with a camera became a fool with a book.

How to self-publish

Now let’s talk about self publishing. What it is, why you should do it and what you stand to gain.

The road to publication

We’re photographers. As photographers we speak to the world through images we share. It’s natural to want to share those with as wide an audience as we can, and often dream of having our work recognized. The road to recognition for most of us is long, and unfortunately, sparsely populated. Oh, and, that road ends in a cul-de-sac, which is really just a fancy dead end, albeit one with a turn around. For those of us on this road, our turn around is self publishing.

Mill Series no.5
Mill Series #5 by Randy Kruzan on Flickr

First, a little clarification. When I say self publish, I am not talking about the photo books you can have made at Shutterfly and similar services. For those, you pick a template, add pics and captions, pick your binding, and you’re done. Those are fine for keepsakes, and I’ve made them for birthdays and such, but they’re not the same caliber as an honest-to-goodness book.

What we’re talking about here is a product that when you’re done you can be proud of and looks professional.

So… What is self publishing?

Put simply, self publishing is paying to have your work published.

Traditionally, a publisher pays you to write or put together a book of your work. You get some portion of sales from the book and they handle the rest. Maybe it works out and you get another book deal and repeat the process.

When you publish your own work, you get to have all the fun. You pick the content. You come up with the design and layout, and edit it yourself. Promotions? Marketing? All you, baby! It can be a lot of work, and often is. Maybe it even SHOULD be! The sense of accomplishment and satisfaction of finally getting your first copy in hand after all of that work is worth it.

Will it make me famous?

Hmm. Stranger things have happened! Look at that guy Jared from the Subway commercials. At the very least, it can allow more people to enjoy your work and who knows what that can lead to.

Fine. Will it make me rich?

Probably not. I know that’s not what you want to hear, and I don’t want to crush any hopes you might have, it’s just not very likely. Like any other adventure, you’ll get out of it what you put in. You might make some money. For me, if I sell one copy more than I bought, I’ll be stoked. If I make enough money from self publishing books to buy a new prime or two, man, I’ll be on cloud nine.

Then why self publish?

Unless you already have a book deal, or are pursuing one and are extraordinarily lucky, incredibly persistent or some combination of those things, self publishing is the perfect way to share your work with the public NOW. Indeed, it may be the only way you’d ever get a book published, but that’s fine! You don’t need to be famous and your work doesn’t have to be well known to publish yourself. You might be a virtual nobody (case in point, myself), but a nobody with a book (dude, me again). If nothing else, it’s an exercise to see if you can do it.

Just remember… Always look on the bright side of life

I had this conversation with my friend and editor, Dave Browne, where I told him I didn’t have any illusions about doing this book. I don’t expect to become famous or land on some best seller’s list, but it would be nice to sell a few. He put it this way: “Buy two books. Keep one for yourself. If you sell two in a year, your demand will have outstripped supply!” Sure, it’s only two books, a minor detail, but your sales will have doubled in your first year.

Benefits of self-publishing

Do a little searching on the Internet for folks who self publish and you’ll find artists, authors, comic book artists and a whole host of others who have either had publishing contracts in the past or were pursuing them and were unhappy about how little control they had as new authors.

SP is a different world: yours.

You have complete creative control. What’s on the cover, how the book is laid out, what images and text go where, it’s all under your control.

You market or promote as much or as little as you want. Self publishing is perfect for photographers who run their own websites or blogs or have an online presence where they can advertise and promote their books.

You don’t have to hold inventory. Because self publishing is typically print on-demand, nobody actually holds your book in inventory.

You only pay manufacture on the copies you want to buy. If you want one copy of your book or twenty, you only pay manufacture on those copies. When someone else buys your book, they pay manufacture as part of the total cost.

You don’t have to handle sales and fulfillment. Unless you’re buying copies to hold onto and sell yourself, the printing company you’re using will handle taking money and shipping the books out to people who buy it.

You can make money on sales. Blurb is one company that allows you to set your own prices on your books at no extra charge. For companies that allow you to do this, there is a base rate (the price of manufacture) and you set your sale price, the difference between the two is yours.

You hold all the rights. The rights to your work are yours alone. Unless the company you’re dealing with has some clause to the contrary, you are the sole rights holder. If you find that’s not the case when shopping around, find someone else.

How to self publish

Or: ‘How I made self publishing made for you, without any guarantees that the same will work for you, but you could do a lot worse than starting here anyway’

Do you really want to do this? It might seem like a no-brainer, but it’s the first question you should ask yourself. There will be at least some monetary expense and of course the cost of your time. If you get a friend to help like I did, you should consider their time as well. Are they up for it? Start here. If you can’t commit, don’t start. Wait until you’re ready.

What’s it about? Do you want to tell a story with your photos like a photo essay? Or is it many stories? Is it just a portfolio? Is there a common theme it should have? Is it mixed photo and text, for example, like a guide book? You can always change this as the project progresses, but you should start out with a solid idea and build on it.

Know your choices, know the requirements – Shop around the service you’re going to use (or for that matter, shop around FOR services if you haven’t yet, see below). Do they have a product that matches your ideal book size and layout? What, if any, are the minimum page count requirements? Do you have images big enough for that size book? (I’ve included a link to a pixel to print size calculator at the end)

If you’re not using a service-provided tool (Blurb has an excellent book builder) then chances are high your final work will need to be a PDF, and any fonts you use will need to be embedded in the PDF. Check their publishing guidelines and know what you need to conform to in your final layout.

Will it bleed? – This is another point to consider before you actually start gathering up your prospects. If you’re going to do a full bleed book, where the image runs to the edges of the page without a border, then it’s probably best to choose photos that are all of the same orientation. No-bleed pages, or even multiple images per page, is less restrictive.

Gather, review, cull, repeat – Find all of the photos you think might work for your book. Digital is the way to go here, if your pics aren’t digitized already they’re going to have to be for printing, so really just do this now. If you have a favorite photo app with a workflow you’re used to, great- go with it. If not, the simplest thing to do is just copy (not move) all of the prospective images to a folder called “My Awesome Book”. For each round of review, make a new folder and only copy those images that make the cut into it. It’s draconian but when you have to dig up something from an earlier revision, you’ll know where it is.

Review your choices. Do they match what your book is about? Are there technical flaws you don’t like (and don’t want to or can’t fix)? Do some just not feel right? You’re never destroying pictures by excluding them, you should be as critical as you want here.

When you’re done reviewing and have made your choices for the next round, open them all up so you can view them in a batch. How does it look? Are you short of meeting the minimum page count? Add if you need to.

Repeat this process until you feel you’re at that point where they’re all good, then sleep on it and review again once more. If it’s still OK, then you have your final set.

Copy editing – Write all of your copy in a simple text editor. You’re not going to format your text until you’re in the layout stage, so simple text works well. It makes it easier to work with.

Regardless of how much text your book has, it’s a good idea to have it copy edited. Even if it’s simply asking your most grammatically advanced friend to review it, get a second set of eyes on it. Proof read. Spell check. Grammar check. Send me a check. Ahh, gotcha ;)

Cover yourself – You can’t judge a book by it’s cover… yeah, yeah, yeah, we do it anyway. Choose a legible font, no matter how cool the squiggly one you found looks. If your book is about puppies, don’t put a truck on it. Unless the puppies are stealing it. That would be awesome.

I prefer simple, but it’s your book. Choose a picture that represents the book.

Final touches – If the publishing service you went with doesn’t automatically build the copyright and title pages, spend a little time to see how those are laid out. I like to mirror the copy (font, placements and sizes) from the cover on the title page. Then the copy page, then the intro. Spend some time getting it right, good fit and finish is one of the things that sets a good self published book apart from the rest.

Layout and conversion – All of the SP services have different guides, sizes and requirements. This is why you should figure out ahead of time what the print guidelines are. Decent services will provide you templates to assist in the layout. In Design or similar publishing and layout software experience pays off here, my friends.

If you need to treat your copy in fancy ways, do it in this stage. Fonts, colors, leading, etc.

Most of the services I looked at all accept PDFs of at least the inner contents and a separate PDF for the cover. Fonts usually have to be embedded in the PDF. Viovio lets you do one PDF for the front cover and another for the back. If you’re not using tools (or using a SP service that doesn’t have tools) then PDF is the only way to go. Again, and I can’t stress this enough, follow their guidelines and requirements.

A simpler alternative – Layout can suck. It can be confusing and a pain. If it’s not your cup of tea, find a SP service that has a book builder tool. As of this writing, both Viovio and Blurb have such a tool available. These tools give you varying degrees of control over colors, styles, fonts, picture layouts and so on and so forth. If you’re going it alone and don’t have In Design skills, this may be your best bet. Don’t fear it. Embrace it.

And finally a word on rights – To nutshell it: If it’s not yours, don’t print it.

You must own or hold the rights to everything you publish in your book, or get written or other specified permission from the rights holder in order to use their materials. There are all kinds of details and legalities surrounding this, but that’s the high level and if you’re in doubt, don’t use it.

Not all publishers are equal

Orange HolesWhen you’re shopping for a publisher keep these things in mind: size, cost, quality and the ability sell your book.

Product types – Do they have a book that matches your desired size and layout (portrait, landscape or square)? It’s also a good idea to look at the minimum page requirements. For some products you simply might not meet the final page count.

Costs and fees – How much are they charging you for your book size? Is it comparable to other publishers? What about retailing fees- are there any? Viovio, for example, will only let you set your own price and collect money on sales of your book if you pay for a $35/year membership. Other companies might not charge a fee, but may be limiting in some other factor like available sizes.

Print and paper quality – Before you settle on a publisher, be sure to read reviews from people who have used them. Solicit opinions from friends and colleagues. It’s also a good idea, if you can afford it, to print a sample book from a company you’re considering. It doesn’t have to be fancy, the idea is just to get it in your hands where you can judge the print and paper quality yourself.

Retailing – If your goal is to market your book and make money from sales, you should also look for the ability to retail your book through the publisher unless you’re planning on buying inventory to hold and sell yourself.

Popular doesn’t always mean great – Read reviews from other SP authors on the services you’re considering using. How do people feel about the final result? Was their system easy to use and navigate? Were there gotchas along the way?

To ISBN or not to ISBN, that is the question…

ISBN stands for International Standard Book Number. It’s a 10 or 13 digit code that uniquely identifies your book from every other book in the world. This is supposed to make cataloging easier or faster or some such thing.

Amazon’s CreateSpace is one of the SP services that will assign your book an ISBN if you don’t have one already, because your book will be sold through amazon.com.

Dead Lift
Dead Lift by Randy Kruzan on Flickr (and also the cover of his book; ‘Finis’)

If you’re not planning on selling your SP book through a wholesaler, bookstore or other retailer, you probably don’t need an ISBN at this time. If you are contacted by a publisher who wants to publish and distribute your book, they will handle ISBN assignment at that point because part of the ISBN is the publisher code.

Get help, man – If you’re serious about self publishing your work and don’t have the skills (or the discipline) to manage the creation of your book, and don’t know someone who does, you’re in luck. Sort of. You just have to pay for it.

Some companies, like Blurb and BookSurge, offer professional help with editing, layout, design and/or final preflight. You can even buy a professional review for your book.

Making it better through collaboration – I honestly believe that my own book would not be half what it turned out to be if it weren’t for my friend who handled editing duties. Obviously if I felt he wasn’t up to the task I wouldn’t have asked him, so keep that in mind if you approach your friends or colleagues.

Once you’ve acquired help, figure out who is doing what. Better yet, you should have an idea of what you need help with before you go asking. If they’re only agreeing to do cover design, for example, you might not want to push book layout on them as well. If they’ve agreed to copy edit, let them. Don’t assign work and take it away.

Keep it fun, and be open to criticism and feedback. It is your book, but if you’re asking advice, at least hear it with an open mind.

Getting them to commit to your project is just as important as you making sure you respect their time and effort. You both have to be on the same page. (Booooooo, bad pun, I know)

Closing – The subject of self publishing could really be turned into a book itself, and I hope that I’ve been helpful here in this space sharing my own SP story and giving some information and advice.

Thanks very much to Haje for the invitation to guest write on Photocritic.org, it was a much needed break from the 140 character world of twitter.

About the author

Randy Kruzan is a photographer and author well disguised as a software engineer. He lives near Seabeck, Washington with his awesome family. Tweet him up @randykruzan on twitter or on the Internet at randykruzan.com

Randy Kruzan’s book can be purchased from Viovio

More resources

Publishing and print on-demand services

Blurb – blurb.com

Viovio – viovio.com

Other resources

Amazon’s self publish and print on demand – createspace.com

Amazon’s assisted publishing – booksurge.com

Pixel to print size calculator at ScanTips.com – scantips.com/calc.html


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