Win your photos on canvas!

As far as presenting photographs goes, you can’t get much more unique than having it professionally transferred onto proper artists’ canvas. To some, it could be prohibitively expensive, but Tocco are currently running a competition where, if you win, you can get your photo printed completely for free! 

 

Competition imageTo win, all you need to do is to browse Tocco’s website and find the image to the right.

Then send an email with the image reference, your name and address to offers@toccoinside.co.uk. Finally, keep your fingers crossed :) Hurry up, though because All correct entries will be entered into a prize draw and the winning entry picked at random on 30th June 2006, so deadline is quite short.

Even if you don’t win, it’s worth giving these guys a once-over, because the quality of canvas printing is quite something to behold.

Good luck!


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Colour to BW using channel mixer

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Yeah, I know… It isn’t as if it is rocket science. You press apple + U, and the picture is nice and de-saturated. However, this also means that you have no control whatsoever about the final result of the image. Instead, a little bit of knowledge how RGB colours work will allow you to create some pretty impressive black and white photos from digital files… 

 

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When you de-saturate (apple + shift + u, or image -> adjust -> de-saturate) this picture, this is what happens:

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Yes, it is a black and white picture, but – if you ask me – it isn’t particularly exciting – and definitely not anywhere near a piece of art. To make this picture even remotely interesting, we have to change the way of turning the picture into black and white.

If you have worked with coloured filters to improve your black and white pictures before, you know what I am talking about; The coloured filters block certain colours from hitting your black and white film, thereby enhancing your photograph. This, then, is the secret: When you shoot in colour, you can add these coloured filters later! This is the reason why, even if you digital camera supports taking black and white pictures, you always should shoot in colour.

03.jpgThe best way of turning a picture like this into black and white, is to use something called the channel mixer – one of the lovely functions found in Photoshop, or indeed most image editing apps.

You find the channel mixer in the in the Image menu – here you find a submenu called adjustments. In this menu, you find some of the most useful commands in Photoshop. Among others, you find the Levels tool (I will do a separate tutorial on this tool before too long), a curves tool (incredibly useful, especially for print work), the de-saturate tool (already mentioned above), and – if you have a quick butcher’s down the list, a Channel mixer.

The Channel mixer is your Friend. Trust me on this. When you open the channel mixer menu, you find something along the lines of the illustration to the left.

The channel mixer can be used for adding great effects to colour pictures as well – such as changing the red and blue channels and stuff like that, making colours really wacky, turning the ocean red and the skies green. Stuff like that – I suggest that (after you finish trying out the stuff in this tutorial, of course) you play more with the channel mixer later.

For our purpose, however, we will check the Monochrome checkbox. This changes the output channel from Red (or green or blue) to gray. This means that now you are mixing the three channels (RGB) into one channel. Of course, this is basically what de-saturation does. Except now you have the option of controlling how it is done: The three sliders are there for you to decide how much of each channel is taken into consideration when converting the three channels to black and white (i.e. mixing the channels. Hence, Channel Mixer.).

On the picture below (marked with R, G and B) I have used 100% blue, green and red, to illustrate the difference between the different channels. Because the sky is largely blue, it appears whited out in the blue channel (see the part of the picture marked "B"). In contrast, the palm tree (which is quite red) will have a lot of dark colours in the blue channel, yet a lot brighter in the red channel.

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When turning people into black and white, the differences can be even more surprising – and effective:

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In this image, using the red channel makes the model unhealthily pale-looking. Using exclusively the blue channel, however, makes him look ridiculously tanned. Basically, this is what the tutorial is all about: Combine the different shades of the colour image, in order to get the exact effect you desire.

 

In the next example, we combined 60% red, 10 % green and 20% blue to make the black and white edition.

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For women, the red channel is a highway to fair skin (small blemishes – being red, normally – completely disappear), while for men, using the blue channel usually lifts up the facial characteristics. For people who have really faint freckles, pulling up the blue channel a bit will enhance the visibility of the freckles. I once photographed a model who – when she saw the images – claimed I had painted on freckles. I denied, and sent her to a mirror. She was 24 years old, but it took a Photographer and some Photoshopping for her to realise the first time in her life that she actually had freckles!

Now that you know what the different channels do, you will want to start experimenting with the settings, so we can turn the images into black and whites the best possible way.


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Concert photography at smaller venues

When we recently posted our guide to concert photography, someone rightly pointed out that the tips were mostly geared towards larger venues with photography pits. This is true, of course, and in my eagerness to tell you all I know about taking photos, I completely forgot about the smaller concert rooms. Shame on me!

Of course, the same person also tipped me off to a site that does have a good guide to concert photography at smaller venues – Excellent! 

 

Onno’s article on Concert photography is largely about taking photos at smaller venues, and offers useful advice, such as “Don’t be annoying” and “Don’t move around constantly” – both which are excellent, but are probably most useful to amateur photographers – if you are there to take some photos of your favourite band, then the advice offered by Onno is good. If you are there to work, you have to act like a professional: You’re not there to enjoy the gig (you can do that after you’ve put your camera away), you are there to capture the action.

The article writer gets excellent results with his method, but when photographing at small venues without a pit, there are still a few things you have to think about, and not annoying people is only one side of it. However, if you are at the venue to do a job, then you have to get your elbows out there, and get the job done: If you have to move through the crowd to get a particular shot, then that’s what you have to do.

Other things I don’t agree with in the article is the notion that you should bring a bag with you. Hell, it’s difficult enough to move through crowds with a camera without having a bag to worry about. So don’t bring a bag, and only put the lens you think you are going to get the most use out of. Make sure your batteries are full and that you don’t have to swap memory cards, too, because you don’t want to be fiddling with your camera in the middle of the action.

One thing that I missed, though, which Onno covers very well, is this:

Keep an eye out for the most active band members. If someone does certain things that seem to show their personality well, try and catch that. People don’t look good with their mouth open towards a microphone. Wait for them to step away from their standard spots so you can catch them off guard and in a different pose from the million other photos out there.

In other words, between our concert photography article and Onno’s article with the same subject, you should be an expert. Now go out there, and get those photos!

Making money off your concert photos

Originally, we had a lot of information here on how you could monetize your concert photography, but it all became a bit wieldy. I would strongly recommend you have a look at our seperate writeup on event photography, and our making money off your photos article.


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Keep your sensor clean

Dust on a DSLR’s sensor is one of those unfortunate facts of life that basically every owner will have to deal with at some point. Shooting outdoors, changing lenses, and even simply using your camera puts you at risk for dust on the sensor. If you don’t have dust now, you will later so be proactive and learn now what you’re options are for dealing with it. 

 

Depending on how bad the dust is you’ll make the call whether you want to clean it now or not. If you decide now is the right time you have a few options on your path to sensor cleanliness.

1. Professional Cleaning This one will cost you the most time and money. Most camera shops don’t actually do sensor cleaning in-house. Instead they send it back to the manufacturer to have it done.

2. Baby Step It’s possible that the dust on your sensor is loose dust that just a needs a nudge to move on. You can use a manual blower/bulb for this. This step is definitely worth trying but unfortunately most of the dust is going to be too stubborn for this method.

3. DIY with Task-Specific Equipment As DSLRs become more popular more companies are developing tools and products specifically for them. This includes sensor cleaning tools. Specific tools are in my opinion the best option for cleaning your sensor. If you use a trusted company you know the materials are safe and effective. In addition they come with instructions that are tailored for the particular product. Better instructions for the product you’re using means less change of a stupid screw up that will hurt your sensor and hose your camera.

Sounds like a nightmare, yeah? Well, that’s because it is. Keep your sensor clean, then you don’t have to clean it in the first place. Simple, yeah? To find out how, read this excellent post by Michelle Jones.


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Cheap off-camera lighting kit

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Picture-5.jpgOur mate over at Strobist (the newest entry in my “regularly read” photo blogs, btw) has created the Starving Student Off Camera Lighting Kit – or the SSO-CLK. It’s all common sense, but there’s so much of it, and it could save you a great number of dollars, pounds, yen, euros, or whatever you pay for your camera gear with.  

 

The SSO-CLK (for lack of a more poetic term) is designed to give you the most bang for your buck – with a nod toward extreme portability. It will work well with any camera that can be controlled manually and has a PC synch jack. Most SLR’s, digital or film, fit this bill. The flash is a vintage Nikon model, but it will work off-camera with anything that has a PC jack.

How can we resist? Check it out at the Strobist: Round Up: The “Starving Student” Off-Camera Light Kit.


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Making food look yummy

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Picture-3.jpgI know we’ve featured Still Life With… once before, but they deserve another mention, for being so damn good. This time, they’ve made a fabulous little guide to how you can make food look good, by using creative lighting techniques.

The great thing is that the tips and lessons learned from this post don’t just apply to food – it works excellently for all sorts of stills photography in a studio setting.  

 

Trainers, fruit, pens, bottles of ketchup, it all makes no difference: Stills photography is stills photography. Food poses its own challenges, of course, and it’s a good thing they are addressed in this article. Personally, I love food, but that’s beside the point: the tips offered are transferrable skills, and I particularly like to pick up new ideas and hone my skills by being challenged to new forms of photography – so why not food?

By using a “show and tell” approach, Still Life With manages to both show you what looks good, explain why it works, and finally take you through the motions of how you can copy the ideas yourself. It’s worth having a look at their Lighting Positioning: Shooting in the Kitchen either way – you won’t regret it!


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Cutting your own mats

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Picture-4.jpgA great way to enhance your photos is to show less of it. Using a Passepartout, or a mat, allows you to add a new layer of relief to a photo.

Professional framers can mat your photos for you easy enough – It doesn’t take a lot of time, but it is a skill that takes a lot of practice to get right, so you can’t do it yourself. Or can you? 

 

Of course you can! Hah. Sarah shows you how to do it in her Small Object blog, in an article titled How I cut a mat. The method is slightly different to how I usually cut my mats, but it makes more sense, and is easier too, so I’ll spare you the differences. Suffice to say that Sarah’s framing and matting skills are a lot higher than mine. So go read her blog entry, and give it a shot!

via PhotoJojo


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Computer ergonomics for photographers

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ergonomics_topic_animation.jpg“What? I thought this was a photography blog? The plonker’s lost the plot”, you may be thinking. And you’re right about the losing the plot thing. Lately, I’ve been spending phenomenal amounts of time in front of my computer at work, and as a result, my neck is completely shot. I was talking about it with a few of my friends, and it transpires that my mate Ed Perchick – who has written for us before (The softer side of Photography, and construct your own flash diffusor) – has a master’s degree in ergonomics!

I cajoled him into writing an article about how to not break yourself completely when working on a computer. You never know when this knowledge may come in handy! 

 

Why is Ergonomics important?

When sitting at a computer for many hours (or even shorter periods of time) it is very important to ensure that it is set up in an ergonomic (safe) way. Failure to do so can result in Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) which is painful and debilitating.

At your desk

You need to make sure that your desk is height adjustable – optimally a two height desk, so that you can adjust the height of the monitor, as well as having the keyboard at the correct height. The correct height for the keyboard allows your arms to hang at your sides, with your elbows at right angles, and straight wrists.

Ensure that your mouse (and phone if you use it a lot) are within reach of you when you sit comfortably so that you do not need to twist or stretch to reach them.

Picture your desk in zones. The most used things need to be right there, e.g. keyboard. Things that are used less often still need to be easily reached with no twisting or stretching, and finally those things that are used very infrequently can be far enough away that you need to reach for them.

Your Chair

You need to make sure that your chair fits you well and that the depth of the seat is such that you can sit right back so your lower back is supported, but not dig into the back of your knees. In addition, your feet should rest flat on the floor.

Your monitor

The top of the monitor should be around your eye level when you sit comfortably, though with larger monitors, it is not unreasonable to have the top of the monitor a little above eye level.

Make sure that there is no glare on your monitor – make sure that any strong lights are softened (halogen spots are BAD), and make sure that the monitor is at right angles to any remaining bright lights – this means that you’re not squinting from a light ahead of you, and not getting glare on the monitor from bright lights behind you.

 

So, now that you know, you will be able to survive all thos long, late-night sessions editing all your artwork in Photoshop! Also, remember to take breaks every now and again – 5 minutes every hour is a good idea. Go get some water, play some ping-pong, go grope your girl- or boy-friend for a bit – whatever works to get your mind off work, so you are ready to return with a clear mind!

Big thanks to Ed for doing this article for us!


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Artist or Snapper?

Photography is probably the most accessible form of art in the world. Granted, a box of crayons is (marginally) cheaper than a disposable camera, but in theory you do not need any skills to use the camera. Aim it at something, and press the button. Chances are that what comes out is a photograph that is roughly in focus, vaguely correctly exposed, and you will be able to tell what you photographed. If you use a box of crayons, you will first have to learn to draw. .

Recently, I spent a few hours reading a brilliant book by Roland Barthes, titled Camera Lucida (or La Chambre Claire, in its original language). It is a short book, filled with short philosophical ideas, thoughts, observations and opinions about photography, all in essay form. This particular book is recognised as being one of the most insightful books into the art of photography.

In essence, this article are my thoughts on the same subject. 

 

What is photography?

One essence of photography is eloquently captured by another writer: it is “the process of trapping time with light, or making a photograph.”

It explains little about the art of photography, however. The amount of photography knowledge encompassed by the internet is a strong indication that the art of photography is far, far from dead. However, most of this knowledge is technical. It explains how you can use a macro lens to capture details. It explains how you can use a camera, a technique or a film in the best way possible.

But hardly any of these articles deal with why.

Why photography?

Ever since the Daguerreotype was invented in 1839, it became clear that photography was a force to be reckoned with. People started experimenting with freezing a flowing motion. The elusive crinkles and wrinkles of time became accessible to – if not the general public, at least to those particularly interested and fairly well off.

The initial interest was purely scientific rather than artistic: People wanted to stop time. Capture a sliver of time on a sliver of paper. The technology evolved furter, as is described better than I ever could in other articles.

Fast forward to today. Everybody and his dog has some kind of camera. A compact thing, perhaps. Or an SLR. A digital camera. A Polaroid box. Or even a few disposable cameras for good measure.

Photography is probably the most accessible form of art in the world. Granted, a box of crayons is cheaper than a disposable camera, but in theory you do not need any technical skills to use the camera. Aim it at something, and press the button. Chances are that what comes out is a photograph that is vaguely correctly focused, vaguely correctly exposed, and you will be able to tell what you photographed. If you use a box of crayons, you will first have to learn to draw.

Photography is not an art.

In other words: If anybody can take a picture, then how can photography ever be considered an art? Buy a £200 camera, and £100 of films and developing, and you are an instant artist, yes?

Philosophy of photography

Back to why people take pictures – I believe this is really the reason for why anybody would call photography an art. What are people trying to convey? For myself, it varies. There are so many reasons for wanting to take pictures of something, but they all boil down to the same thing: The intension of keeping something that is not always there, forever.

There are many good reasons for wanting to do so. A proud parent would possibly want to keep visual memories of how their child looked when it was little. Because the child will grow, and the little child will not be there forever. When on vacation, you might want to capture the views of the Eiffel tower and the canals of Venice, for almost the same reason: The tower and canals will still be there, but you won’t be there with them, so to you, they will not be there forever.

So historic preservation – either to capture something that will disappear, or something that you shan’t be able to revisit soon – is a reason for taking pictures.

How do you then explain the people who attempt to freeze a drop of water hitting a glass of water? Or those who spend thousands of pounds on macro lenses so they can spend hours on end laying in the dirt photographing tiny leaves of flowers? Or those who spend days setting up a still life, before spending hours to photograph it? All that for some fruit?

This leads me to my next point: Photography can partially be about preservation. A memory-insurance (think the main character in memento, and his Polaroid memories). However, there is another important reason for taking pictures: showing a different morsel of reality from what you normally see. A properly lit apple can be a work of art. A CD disc can be a beautiful image. A glass of water – perhaps one of the most normal sights in the world – can become something breathtaking.

Stopping time

The point is that photography allows you to look closely at something. Even in its simplest form – a simple colour photograph – a photography changes reality fundamentally. For one thing, a motion will be stopped. For another thing, it is possible to look at something that is blurred. And it is now two dimentional. All of these changes have been made just as you hit the shutter. In 99% of photographs taken, the exact same photograph can never be taken again. A cloud has moved. A bird has moved. The sun has changed character. The light has changed. Something changes, effectively changing the scene. Probably forever. And the only proof you have that it ever happened is captured on your film and your memory. About 5 minutes later, your memory has faded, and the image captured on your film is all that is left.

Photography is art

Anyone can take a photograph. Which is not to say that all photographic images are works of art. But some are. The difference between photography and all other art forms is what makes art art: Taking a good photograph is largely down to technique, but technique is something that is easy to learn. Read all the articles linked to from in m_turners photography metanode, and you will know everything you need to know. Shutter times, apertures, lens and film speeds will be second nature to you. No, technique is not what is going to hold you back from being the best photographer in the world.

Money might – buying good equipment is expensive. However, some of the best images I have seen in my life were taken with 20 year old equipment and 15 year old lenses, so that can hardly be an argument.

What makes a good photographer, is the ability to previsualise and to see.

What makes good photography?

Exposure. Crop. Lighting. Background. Contrast. Focus. Sharpness.

 

If your image contains a correct application of all of the above, you have created a piece of art. Kind of. It means that, technically, you master the art of photography. A correct exposure and focus proves that you know how to operate your camera. Good sharpness and contrast proves that your (digital) darkroom skills are good. Good lighting and background mean that you prepared your image thoroughly, and that you bothered to make sure that the shadows and highlights were where you wanted them. The crop is your final guide towards presenting the image. Now all you need is a message…

As an artist, there are three reasons for why I would want to take a picture of something:

1 – Something impossible. This would include anything I do using creative lighting, long shutter times (2 seconds or more) or short shutter times (1/2000 second or less). Full 360 degree panoramas. Extreme macro photographs. Why are these images special? Primarily because the images you get, are images you could not possibly see without photography. The eye cannot freeze something that happens in less than 1/2000th of a second. The eye cannot use motion blur or see in near-complete darkness, such as a 20 second exposure. This means that you are creating images that do not exist. Images that cannot exist in real life. Images that cannot be captured on motion film. Images exclusive to photography.

2 – Classic photography. This would include portraits, for example. Or still life. Act photography. A question of, through good backgrounds, creative lighting and that tiny little more attention to detail, creating a photograph unlike any other

3 – Just looking.

Just looking? But isn’t that obvious? Well, yes. But people are so used to using their eyes all day, every day, that they forget to look. Or they forget what they are looking for. Or they forget that they are looking for something. Always carrying a camera is not a guarantee to learn how to look. Myself, I trained this by walking in a forest with my eyes closed. 50 steps ahead.

Then, opening my eyes, I would have to take a picture. Repeat 36 times. Be surprised. There are gorgeous photographs everywhere, but only so many people are able to see them.

Which is what creates an artist,
>rather than a just a photographer.


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Make your own camera out of paper!

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Picture-23.jpgThere are cheap projects, and then there are Cheap projects. This is one of the latter, no doubt. In this project, we aren’t modifying a camera, we’re building one completely from scratch! And is that wasn’t enough, you can do so with some tape, some paper, a paperclip… You get the picture: Just stuff you have kicking about the office. 

 

There is no reason a camera shouldn’t be made out of paper, as long as the paper is light-proof. So basically: Get some heavy-duty (black) paper, and make a camera out of it. Sounds a bit daunting, doesn’t it? But it’s perfectly doable, and to help you on your way, Lighthouse in a Tree have created a PDF template, downloadable from their website.

As if that wasn’t enough, they have also created a flash-based instruction video!

I’m definitely giving this a shot this week-end.

Thanks to Photography Jam for the tip!


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Quick-release neckstraps

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Picture-13.jpgAnother of those dirt-cheap yet incredibly useful camera modifications – quickly detachable neck straps!

There are tons of reasons for why you could want to remove the neck strap from your camera. If you’ve got a light camera, most of the time you don’t need it anyway, but even for SLRs, it makes sense: Straps can get caught in the wind, or you may prefer to keep your strap on a very short length, which makes taking it off and on tricky.  

 

… So a simple, cheap and effective solution is where it’s at! I found a post in the DPReview forums where a user explains how he used simple metal hooks to make a quick detatchable camera lens strap mod.

HOOK.gifPersonally, I’d probably have gone for aluminium (or aluminum, for you Americans out there) carabiner hooks (see the pic on the right), primarily because they are a hell of a lot lighter, and easier to click on and off too, but either way, the idea is great.


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Intro to digital photography

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Picture-24.jpgOne of my old mates pointed out that the DIY network has a surprisingly thorough introduction to digital photography.

It appears as if the article series is mostly just a transcript or summary of a television programme, but the articles are very well written, interesting, and have a series of “further reading” links. Although I knew all of this before, I just wasted an entire afternoon reading all the links. Highly recommended, in other words :)


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Photography, meet Tetris!

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photo_blocks2.jpgPhotos make for great gifts, but the whole “get a print and a frame, combine the two, whoopee” thing is getting older than dinosaurs smoking pipes, knitting scarves in rocking chairs. So what you want is original presents, with an original touch.

So what do you do? Well, what about Photo Blocks? Cheap to make, but they look good, and at least it looks as if you’ve made an effort.  

 

From the lovely lads over at PhotoJoJo:

We’re here to help. Gather your piles of vacation photos, stunning portraits of Aunt Mildred, and your gallery-worthy shots of your feet; it’s time to put ‘em to use.

We’re going to show you how to make a stunning gift using your photos in 15 minutes or less. Keep it for yourself and make another for a friend. It’s sure to impress.

The wicked thing? They’ve even made a video tutorial – you’d have to be really dumb to screw this one up.


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Polaroid + Pinhole = Pinholaroid

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polapin.jpgA lot of pinhole photography stuff recently, but that’s because it’s cool, yo!

My old mate over at PhotoThoughts keeps coming up with these groovy, outlandish camera mods, and I love him for it: 

 

I picked up a Polaroid camera for $1 at a garage sale thinking I could add a pinhole and have a pinholaroid. I didn’t find any good online tutorials, and feeling confident after building my digital pinhole camera, I decided to figure it out as I went. Keep reading to learn how to turn a cheap Polaroid camera into a cheap polaroid pinhole camera…

Check it out, it’s worth a read, even if you have no plans building one of these yourself. On the other hand, you can pick up polaroid cameras for next to nothing nowadays – why not give it a shot?


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Stand inside the camera...

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cameratruck2.jpgSo, you’ve gone tired of making pinhole cameras out of milk cartons, tins, and boxes? You are thinking bigger? These guys built a pinhole lorry, using the entire loading bed as a pinhole camera!

American photographer Shaun Irving and English Art Director Richard Browse have created what they believe to be the world’s largest mobile camera. Designed in America and constructed in Spain, the cameratruck is a simple box camera built right inside a standard delivery truck. Measuring 5 metres long, 2 metres wide and 2 metres high, the gigantic camera is capable of taking pictures almost 3 metres across.  

 

cameratruck.jpgThe cameratruck serves as transportation, shelter, darkroom and of course giant camera. And though it sounds like a hi-tech marvel, the camera itself is as simple as can be: just a light-tight box with a hole in it. It’s like the very first pinhole cameras ever used, but with two important differences: the cameratruck uses a lens to focus the giant image inside the box, and unlike any other camera in the world, the photographer stands inside the camera to take the picture. This makes the cameratruck a fantastic educational tool, especially in this digital age when the magic of photography is rapidly disappearing. As Shaun himself says, “Photography is so much easier to understand when you stand inside a camera and see it happening all around you.”

Taking a huge photo with a 5 metre camera is where the magic of the cameratruck starts. But developing the negative and resulting positive prints is what moves the work of Shaun Irving from photography into art. The size of the negatives, about 2.5 metres wide by 1 metre high, make them impossible to develop in a standard developing bath, so Shaun has to work in the dark, sponging on the chemicals by hand from a bucket. The smell is nauseating, but slowly the image begins to appear on the huge sheets of photographic paper. And not just the image: there are streaks where the developer missed, swirls and bubbles where the sponge paints its way across the surface of the paper. You might even see Shaun’s handprints in there somewhere. Every negative is developed by hand and every print made from it is unique.

A truly inspired project, well worthy of a link, I thought… Check them out on Cameratruck.net!


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Cafe Society in Freetown, Sierra Leone

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sleone.jpgI don’t normally do this, spamming random photography projects, but this one is something special.  

 

Cafe Society, a group I have done various projects with (including the Rez ’03 project) have gone to Sierra Leone for a project (explained here).

The photos are beautiful, sad, harrowing, hopeful and wondrous. Check out the photo collection on Flickr. It is pure, condensed inspiration. Check ‘em out.


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Buying the right camera

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eos.jpgIn a completely unrelated post, I received a rather lengthy comment today. I suspect the main purpose of the post was to get a link to his site, but of course, Photocritic uses REL=NOFOLLOW (read why) on all the user-contributed links, so the spamming activity went without any particular merit.

What was insteresting, however, was that this person actually raised an interesting issue and an fascinating question. He says that 75% of people buy the wrong camera for his photography courses… 

I am a photography teacher.

I find that 75% of people buy the wrong camera. So just how do they end up in one of my classes with the wrong camera. The short answer is that they bought the most fashionable looking camera without really knowing what to look for in a digital camera.

The questions you should ask the sales person is: how long does the camera take to turn on? How long does the camera take to focus on the subject? And how long does it take to actually take the photo? Turning on the camera can take between 1-5 seconds, focus can take from 0-2 seconds and shutter lag can take up to 1 second.

Why is this important, well try taking a photo of a child blowing out the candles with a camera that takes 2 seconds to focus and 1 second to take the photo and all you will be left with is a child looking away and smouldering candles. This is where the new D70s rise above all the other cameras in its class with instant turn on focus and shutter release.

We highly recommend the D70 to someone who wants a camera to last him or her for many years without the frustration of a slow camera. We are so happy with our D70s we bought four more we highly recommend them to anyone who loves photography and does not want to have to upgrade when they learn more about photography!

 

Why 75%? Surely, everybody who buys an D-SLR has a camera good enough? Why are you talking about shutter lag and camera turn-on-lag? It’s a long time ago that this was a big issue for digital compact cameras. Sure, there are still crummy cameras out there, but the vast majority of digital compact cameras are not struggling with the problems mentioned here. Granted, most of them aren’t good for a photography course because you don’t have aperture and shutter speed settings, but still…

And finally – Why recommend the Nikon D70 specifically? Do you work for Nikon? I would argue that any digital SLR (even the ages-old Canon EOS 30D, if you can pick it up for cheap off eBay) is more than good enough to use for learning photography. Hell, according to Froogle, you can pick up a digital SLR for about $650 (£350, approx). Furthermore, there isn’t that much difference between the D-SLRs anymore. Of course, the better cameras have more features and are more sturdy, but image quality wise, a 8mpx camera is as good as most other 8mpx cameras – especially in the DSLR world, where you supply your own glass anyway.

So folks, ignore all previous advice, and buy any DSLR (preferably Canon or Nikon, I don’t quite trust the others yet) you want.

… And just because this guy with his spamming managed to raise an interesting issue, I’m going to thank him by linking to his website anyway. Although, strictly speaking, I probably wouldn’t bother with going to any of the courses. If his Photocritic commenting skillz are anything to go by…


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Bulk loading your own film

Ah, it’s a proper blast from the past, this one… Did you know you can actually load your own photographic film into 36mm canisters? It’s possible, it’s easy, and it actually saves you a mahoosive amount of money, because buying film in bulk is a hell of a lot cheaper than buying film by film. 

 

Of course, this being film, it has to be done in your film developing room, in complete and utter darkness. It isn’t, however, much more difficult than unloading and threading the film into your developing tanks, so it’s worth a go… That is, if they still sell film in bulk. I haven’t actually stepped into a camera store for so long, that I wouldn’t know.

Either way, if you manage to find bulk loading film, then you can’t go much wrong by reading The Bulk Loading FAQ – it’s now here on Photocritic- it contains everything you need to know.

Good luck!


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Annual portrait tracking

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familyportraits.jpgOn June 17th, 1976, Diego Golberg had a fabulous idea: What if I could take a portrait photo of all my family members every year? It would be an interesting way to see how people change over time. And so he did. The result is inspired, and would easily become a highly cherished family memory.  

 

… Especially if you manage to turn it into a family tradition. Imagine if you had complete set of photos from your grandparents and all the way to your own children – one photo of everybody in your household in the past 100 years. It would be magnificent.

Check it out on ZoneZero: Diego Golberg’s Family Portrait Ritual.

Thanks, PhotoJoJo!


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Minolta 35mm to digital conversion

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dslr.jpgI think this write-up by GPS aware is most likely to be a joke (the quality of the pictures doesn’t inspire much faith, anyway), but it seems to be a funny project anyway. It re-opens the ages-old discussion of “So, I have a great 35mm camera, why can’t I convert it into a digital camera?”. 

 

There are, of course, commercial products available that will help you out, called Digital Backs, such as this one for Mamiya medium formats, and the legendary Phase One backs for Hasselblads, etc. These products will cost enough money that you could put down a deposit for a house and buy a car for the same money, and is therefore largely limited to commercial (advertising) photographers.

On the cheap, you are looking for a different approach. Such as GPS Aware, who took a broken Minolta and stuck a webcam to it.


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