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OMG everything looks weird!

Don’t be alarmed, we haven’t been hacked, I’ve just finally gotten around to getting a decent design on the Photocritic site!

It takes a tiny little bit of getting used to, but I’m sure you’ll figure it all out soon enough – nothing has changed too drastically, the main difference is that the site doesn’t look nearly as crap as it used to :)

What do you reckon of the new design?

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The Holga and avoiding it

From the same people that brought you the Lomo, the Holga is pretty much the same thing, but this time in medium format!

According to the Holga web site the camera is designed and engineered in 1982 in China. The name is derived from Cantonese; Ho Gwong, which supposedly means “Very Bright”.

There are two models of the Holga; The Holga 120 S features an extremely dark lens (f8), fairly wide angle (60mm) and that’s it. The Holga 120 SF is identical, but has a flash. 

 

According to the web site, the Holga has “soft focus, double-exposures, streaming colors, intense vignetting, and unpredictable light leaks”

Not such a great thing, after all…

The Holga is a complete joke, pretty much like the Lomo, but for different reasons. Yes, it is fun to tinker with, but the entire point of shooting medium format in the first place is to get significantly better picture quality.

The fact that the Holga has a f8 lens is worth shedding a tear over (even single-use cameras have f8 lenses, and they are basically thrown at you). I cannot imagine everything they must have messed up to not being able to squeeze any more brightness out of that lens.

Also, the soft focus argument is rather depressing. Of course, soft focus can be fabulous, but shouldn’t you, the photographer, decide when your camera decides to use soft focus? The same goes for the rest of the list of “features”.

The Lomo had something called the “tunnel effect” which really was due to horrendously bad lens quality. For the Holga, they have at least got the sense to call a spade by it’s real name, and call it vignetting. However, vignetting is never a good thing. Streaming colours, double exposures (providing you cannot control them) and unpredictable light leaks are all signs of a camera that is seriously flawed.

I ran a few films through the Holga the other day, and I must say I was curious if I should laugh or cry. I decided to do the latter. The camera I tried (A less flawed model than the average, according to the owner) was the worst camera I have handled in my life.

It costs £18 brand new, what do you expect?

Well, I really expect people not to fall for that. If you look around a little, you should be able to get a decent TLR for about £25 in an antique shop or used photo dealership. You will be getting something far more reliable, far more fun, and far more exact than the Holga can ever be.

For pete’s sake – if you are going to go with medium format, at least get something where you have any advantage of the format at all! The Lomo is fun, because it offers you to see the world from a different angle. The camera even has a decent lens and a fair chance of taking good shots. The Holga is absolutely worthless.

All in all; I recognize the fact that flaws might “make” the picture. But – and this is important – you should at least be able to control the flaws to a certain extent. Do yourself a favour and avoid this thing!

Still curious? Check out The Holga Website

What do you think?

Have you tried one of these things? Do you think they are worth trying? Is my review fair or completely out there? Drop us a comment!


For your reference, lomo stuff covered on Photocritic before can be found by doing a tag-search for Lomo!


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Digital Colorsplash

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colorsplash.jpgLomography has been covered at length before, but people keep giving me fantastic tips about lomo photos, so I just can’t help but going back to the topic again and again.

This time, I got a tip about someone who’s made a digital version of the Lomo Coloursplash – essentially a cheap camera with a coloured gel in front of the flashgun.

What a brilliant idea! 

 

A Lomo Colorsplash is a weird little camera… As they put it themselves: “The opportunity of magically applying the ‘wrong’ colors to your image, just like the new and old masters, is adding an abstract edge to Lomography as a whole. It’s adding a new level of randomly generated interpretative possibilities, one that has never existed in the everyday artistic lives of Lomographers before.”

It’s an old concept, but it’s a good one, which is why the Colorsplash is selling reasonably well. In the age of digital photography, who still uses these things, though? Well, we sure don’t, so we were roused by Pikol’s account on how to make your own SLR colorsplash camera. It’s simple, it’s cheap, and it’s heaps of fun. Just the way we like it.


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Panorama cameras

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horizon-perfekt.jpgPanoramas are an excellent way of seeing the world around you, but it’s not always easy to get them right. Stitching photos together is nearly impossible without decent software, and most decent software costs a metric crapload of money.

There are decent ‘real’ panorama cameras out there, of course, but cameras like the Hasselblad X-pan will set you back as much as a small car.

Luckily, there are other products out there… 

 

One of these cameras is the Horizon Perfekt. It’s a funny looking little thing, but despite of this, I’ve heard good things about it. It uses a swinging lens which sees a full 120 degrees, on a 58mm long negative – nearly the width of two standard frames, and a far better solution than the wide-angle setting on an APS camera.

The next step up on the ladder is the Widepan Pro 2. Each shot employs a movable swing lens for a 140-degree field of view and all those curved-horizon distortions. Using its included adapter, the Widepan Pro II is also the longest 35mm panoramic machine of all time. Each frame is 110mm wide, which is over three times the length of a normal 35mm frame. Very cool indeed, but also quite expensive.

If you want to go full-out hardcore, you can go medium format. Whereas the Hassy X-Pan will take 36mm film, the Widepan camera will fill 1/4 of a 120 medium format film in a single shot. Amazing resolution, wicked quality, and a heart-stopping price… And then comes the problem of ‘what the hell do I do with a negative that big’ – you could scan it in part by part and piece it together in the computer, but I don’t know of any negative scanner or darkroom copier that will accept a negative that big. And getting panoramas drum-scanned does seem slightly over the top. Mostly a gimmick, then.

New Scientist Photo Competition

Peeling the plastic of the issue of New Scientist magazine I just received in the mail, I dropped the mag on the ground. It fell page-open on page 51, which happened to be a photography competition. Now I’m not supersticious, particularly, but I definitely felt it was a sign to share it with you lot!

Competition entries can be viewed here, and you can add your own entries at the same URL. Get your submissions in, you can win a Canon EOS 400D!


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Introduction to Photoshop Techniques

Adobe Photoshop is going to be your best buddy in the whole wide world, if you are working with photography to any degree.

In its simplest guise, Photoshop is great for doing simple things, such as correcting colours, cropping images, rotating them slightly, and adjusting contrast. From here on, you can do just about anything you can dream of with photos: Advanced image manipulation etc.

Because Photoshop is such an incredibly powerful package, it can also be downright scary, however… 

 

So it is a good thing that there are magazines such as Digital Camera magazine, that aim to reduce some of the learning curve involved with learning how to use Adobe Photoshop properly. In this case, the lads have put together a simple guide Photoshop techniques, including colour balance, hue/saturation, levels, curves, brightness/contrast, and an approximation as to what happens when you over-do the techniques.

It’s not rocket science, but it’s a really short and rather readable introduction to one of the best image editing packages out there.


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How Big Can I Print This Photo?

It’s a question that keeps haunting the digital camera world again and again – how big, exactly, can you print a photo taken with a X megapixel digital camera?

The answers seem to differ a lot, partially because of the various definitions. In a bid to put an end to all the half-arsed opinions and semi-valid arguments, Design 215 have taken one for the team, and explain it all… Nevermind that I don’t quite agree with them, but it’s worth having a read either way.  

 

The maximum size you can print a photo at depends on three things: How much image data you have (i.e how many megapixels your camera has), how much you can upsample this data (i.e you can easily increase the size of a photo by 20% in Photoshop, and most people would never be able to tell the difference), and how close to the print your audience will be standing (if they will be close, it has to be high resolution (typically 300 dpi), if they will be further away, you can get away with printing it at lower resolution, which means your final print can be much bigger).

Check out the chart over at Design 215

(via photojojo)


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Of course you can

can.jpg

can.jpgIf you’re willing to think out of the box, there are plenty of un-can-ny ideas you can put into life – like the cheeky idea by Photojojo, which can be summarised into ‘stick your photos on a can’. It’s a damn fine idea, though, and the results are guaranteed to bring a smile to the face of all who see it.  

 

Beautiful! Simple! Cylindrical! All the qualities you look for in the finest photo frames, now available in the CanFrame — a simple DIY photo frame project from Photojojo.

Our tutorial will step you through an insanely simple way to show off your photos for the price of a 79 cent can of beans. All you need is the aforementioned can, some glue, a photo, and 15 minutes!

The DIY CanFrame: Transform a Tin Can into a Simple Photo Frame in 15 Minutes!


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What camera do you use?

Hi folks, I’m curious to know what sort of camera you lot use, so I can cater for it in this blog. It’s terribly simple, just fill in the poll below.

Also, if you want to get more specific, please do post the make and model of your camera in the comments :) 

 

 

What is your main camera?

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What brand is your main digital camera?

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Be a photographer also on your days off

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dual-camera-shirt.jpgOk, I know this post is a bit of a cop-out, but it made me giggle, so I couldn’t help but post it (and I’m too busy for proper posts at the moment, gosh darn it!).

What do you do after a long day of taking photos? Or when you go for a night on the town? Would you still like people to know that you are a photographer? Well then you obviously need one of these shirts! 

 

I found this shirt on a japanese website. I have no idea how I can order one or where they are available, or even how much they are, but it’s a brilliant idea, and if I can figure it out, I’m definitely ordering one!

[via]


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Inspiration: Philip at Lithium Picnic

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Lithium-Picnic.jpgPhilip is one of the photographers I’ve been following for years and years. He is a tremendously good photographer, and he has been an inspiration to me for years.

I’ve mentioned him before, as part of our writeup on concert photography, as the guy is a fantastic concert photographer. That only deals with a tiny fraction of where his real skills lay, however… 

 

Philip’s amazing vision is multi-layered, and sexy as anything. I came across him first when I discovered his work on Suicide Girls (NSFW!) – see his portfolio gallery (NSFW) of SG work, but the guy has a lot more strings to his bow: His portraiture work is always well-balanced and inspiring, his fashion work is at times original, at times classic, but always of high quality (find the galleries from his main portfolio index).

Convinced he’s worth finding out more about? Thought so! Read the interview with Philip on Eros Zine, stalk him on MySpace or follow his LiveJournal. Check out his LITHIUM PICNIC page as well, of course.

Philip, if you stumble across this on your travels across the interweb – thanks for everything, man, and the best of luck in your future career :)


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Slow on the updates

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writing-a-book.jpgHi, my lovelies!

Well, the contracts have been signed, and I’m working my arse off on the photography book I am writing. It’s a tremendous honour and a fantastic challenge to be asked to write a book, but next to my 10-to-12-hour-a-day day-job and spending the rest of the time writing my book, there isn’t a lot of time for other things, including eating, sleeping, communicating with friends, or updating my Photocritic blog.

It’s a damn shame, because I do love this blog (hell, it’s the reason why I was asked to write the book in the first place, so it’s actually invaluable to my status quo), but there just isn’t a lot of time.

My deepest apologies. I expect to start getting a little bit more time as the book starts taking shape. Stay tuned – we’ll soon return to our regular scheduled programming. Oh, and no doubt I’ll be whoring out my book as well – it’s due to hit the book-shops in spring 2007. All I need to do now is to write the damn thing :)

Much love,

Haje Jan Kamps


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Question time: Enlarger in the darkroom?

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enlarger-holga.jpgAs a response to our Darkroom on a budget post, Stefan asked us if you need to have an enlarger in the dark-room.

Well, technically, you don’t, but it depends on what you wish to do with your dark-room. To be honest, I never owned an enlarger myself. But let’s start at the beginning, shall we?  

 

An enlarger is a device you use to enlarge your negatives – basically it’s a good light-source with a lens and a boom, and a flat table at the foot of the boom. The lens and light move up and down along the boom, which is how you crop your image, or enlarge it: Move the assembly higher up for bigger images, or move it further down for smaller images. Once you’ve got the right size, you focus the lens onto the paper, and voila, you’re ready to copy your photographs from negatives onto paper – known as photographic prints.

The last part of the enlarger is a timer, which you set to make sure that the exposure of your prints is accurate. Expose them more, and they become darker, expose them less, and they become lighter. You can, of course, do a lot of creative things here as well.

Either way, you can get around the use of an enlarger if you go high-tech: I only ever had a film processing tank at my house (my endless hours spent enlarging prints in the darkroom was mostly at folkehøgskole or university). You can process and develop your films very cheaply, and then use a negative scanner to scan the photos into your computer. Once you’ve done that, you can do all the dark-room stuff on your computer.

I would say, however, that it would definitely be worth having a go at making your own prints at some point – have you checked if there might be a photo club anywhere around where you live? They will often rent out darkrooms for a ridiculously low sum, and there will be people around to help you out as well.

Good luck, Stefan, and everybody else!


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ByoP (Bring your own Planet)

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planetjojo.jpgSo, they decided to exile Pluto from our little planetary club. What? Suddenly a planet less? Though this be madness, yet there is method in ‘t. Nonetheless, it’s getting a bit lonely down here, afting having an 11% decrease in number of planets to deal with over night.

So, we were most happy when we discovered that our old comrades over at PhotoJoJo had stumbled across a wicked solution: With the power of Photoshop, panoramas and more than a little bit of creativity, you can make your own planets – just like that! 

 

But wait! We’ve just the solution: Our pal Dirk wrote up a tutorial that shows you how to turn any panorama or landscape photograph into a full-fledged planet!

Best of all, once you’ve selected an image to work with, the process takes only 5 minutes. (Launching your new planet into solar orbit may take a bit longer.)

For the full skinny check out the full article over on PJJ :)


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Portraiture grows an attitude

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Picture-21.jpgI don’t normally single out single photographers, but I’ve been a fan of Renoux for so long, that I feel I have to plug the guy. He’s a Frenchman, no doubt with an intense passion for life. His portraiture work is some of the most amazing I’ve ever seen in my life. The sheer Joie de vivre, passion and je-ne-sais-quoi that radiates from his photos is out of this world. 

 

Picture-11.jpgA word of warning however: Many of his portraits include nudes, so you may not want to look at this one in your lunch break. Unless you’ve got a job like mine, of course, where staring at boobs all day is perfectly acceptable.

Either way, check out Renoux’s deviantART Gallery. The man’s a genius.


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Lomotomizing photographs

We’ve told you what Lomography is, how it works, and we’ve even established that, while the results are rather special, Lomography doesn’t magically defy the laws of physics (aw, shucks).

But what do you do if you cannot be bothered to actually buy a Lomo camera?

Enter the 21st century: What we can’t do with cameras, we’ll replicate digitally! The upside of this is that there are quite a few different ways to Lomotomize* a photo! 

 

The hard-core version of lomotomising a photo is to just build a digital Lomo. Not for the faint of heart, I must say, but it’s a funny project! If you are into your slightly more obscure cameras, you could try a Digital Holga, of course.

If you aren’t quite up for that challenge, you could try to replicate the Lomo effect in Photoshop manually (or like this), or if you’re a lazy sod, there’s even a plug-in that does it all for you – with less control and creative input, of course, but to be honest you don’t have that much control over what a real Lomo camera does to your photos either.

Have fun!

*) As I’m writing this, my fantastic pun has never been used before: the word Lomotomize or its UK spelling equivalent Lomotomise don’t exist in Google! I feel very special for having invented a new word!


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Photographing Formula One

Formula-1.jpg

Formula-1.jpgSo, you start taking photos. First, you take photos of an apple. Then, perhaps, you move on to people. If you’re serious, you move on to slightly faster-moving items, such as running people, or even bicyclists.

Move over, Ansel, you haven’t seen anything until you’ve seen Andy Lees’ photos – he’s one of the world’s top Formula 1 photographers, with a massive library of pics from tons of race tracks.

Interesting enough in itself, perhaps, but far more excitingly, the man’s written a guide to how he works, which was where my ears stood up and my attention was well and truly captured… 

 

Photographing Formula One can be a tricky and initially frustrating experience, not least of all because like most sports photography, you are usually shooting fast moving objects, but also because of the difficulty of “getting close to the action” and the physical obstacles that are put in your way – high spectator fencing, large gravel run off areas (kitty litter’s) that are apparent on most corners at circuits and increase the distance between you and your subject, large crowds with flags supporting their favourite driver etc….all fiendishly designed to ruin your photo!

If you are into motorsphort, photography, or both, that should be enough to make you want to click this link and soak up the knowledge offered up!


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Is Lomography physically different?

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lomopic.jpg I’ve written about Lomography once before (if you have no idea what I’m on about, you’ll probably wanna have a peek at that post first), and briefly talked about what it is, how it works, and how there seem to be a huge bunch of nutters who love the art-form (I’m one of ‘em).

The question that remained, though, is ‘how can a camera allow you to take special photos’? After all, all cameras adhere to the same laws of physics and optics – so how do Lomo photos manage to look so distinctive and different?  

 

Well, basically, a Lomo camera is just a really crappy camera. The point is, however, that it is supposed to be unbelievably low quality. The upside is that the quality flaws of the Lomo are rather predictable – which is what gives them their special look.

I was going to rant on about this at length, only to be pointed to an excellent article by Nicos, where it’s all covered:

Fundamentally, the answer is “it isn’t physically different”. The physical principles of photography are essentially invariable, regardless of camera type. Like goes into a box through a hole and prints a pattern on a photosensitive material. (or sensor) A shoebox with a hole on one side, a lomo, a disposable camera, an SLR and a digital point-and-shoot, all share this same basic model of operation.

Read the whole piece over on Travel Photography Blog!


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Writing a book!

Hi all,

A while ago, a publisher asked me if I wanted to write a book on a topic within Photography. I’m terribly excited and humbled, and I can’t wait to get started properly.

Of course, this means that I won’t have quite as much time to update Photocritic over the next couple of days, but I still hope to manage an update every third to fourth day or so :)

I’m hyped to shreds about this project! I will probably need a bit of help from some of you guys over time (Here’s your chance to have some photos published, perhaps?!), but I can’t divulge too much at this time – I haven’t even signed any contracts or anything yet, although I’m reasonably certain it is going though.

Stay tuned, as they say on radio. Perhaps I should say “stay bookmarked”, instead…

- Haje


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Canon 400D / Digital Rebel XTi

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400d.jpgI don’t normally write about camera equipment launches – there wouldn’t be much space for anything else on this blog if I did – but it’s rather worth noting that Canon are launching their brand new baby-brother of the digital SLR family, the 400D. 

 

It’s a massive upgrade over the 350D: Coming with a 10 mpx CMOS sensor, the same 2.5″ screen found on the bigger brethren in the Digi-EOS range, continuous shooting at up to 3 fps of up to 27 shots, and a price-tag that is expected to be around the same as the current 350D (just below the US$1K mark – or less than £600 or so), it should be a fantastically exciting option worth considering.

Interestingly, it’s also the first camera that gets the new Canon EOS Integrated Cleaning System. For more info, see the video below!

Personally I bought myself a new 30D this week (my 20D was getting tired of the abuse), because I prefer the sturdier metal alloy body and the faster 5fps shooting, but if I was looking for an entry-level d-slr body, the 400D gets my hottest, warmest, and most sincere recommendations.

More info about the 400D can be had at my favourite camera reviews and news site, Digital Photo Review!


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