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	<title>Comments on: Recovering lost images from a memory card</title>
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	<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/</link>
	<description>The Photocritic DIY photography projects blog</description>
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		<title>By: Cali</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314071</link>
		<dc:creator>Cali</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:57:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314071</guid>
		<description>Fortunately I haven&#039;t formatted my SD card yet and lost any images but its a handy thing to know and I wasn&#039;t aware how the erase process went. I had assumed like most people formatted means gone forever.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fortunately I haven&#8217;t formatted my SD card yet and lost any images but its a handy thing to know and I wasn&#8217;t aware how the erase process went. I had assumed like most people formatted means gone forever.</p>
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		<title>By: David Field</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314056</link>
		<dc:creator>David Field</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:20:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314056</guid>
		<description>@Stephen - The difference is that the Windows doesn&#039;t index removable devices by default and, even when it does, the tools never write to the device they are indexing (the indexes are held under your AppData folder on your hard disk)

It doesn&#039;t matter what the OS is (I use Windows, OS and Linux daily so I don&#039;t have a perference) -- the point is that you must never let anything write to the device if you want to guarantee that you can recover the data from it</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Stephen &#8211; The difference is that the Windows doesn&#8217;t index removable devices by default and, even when it does, the tools never write to the device they are indexing (the indexes are held under your AppData folder on your hard disk)</p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t matter what the OS is (I use Windows, OS and Linux daily so I don&#8217;t have a perference) &#8212; the point is that you must never let anything write to the device if you want to guarantee that you can recover the data from it</p>
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		<title>By: the_wolf_brigade</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314052</link>
		<dc:creator>the_wolf_brigade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Oct 2009 10:40:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314052</guid>
		<description>As a purely film shooter, I always have a concrete backup (but that&#039;s not to say I don&#039;t have other issues that might result in loss of images to contend with!).

However, my wife has a PnS and I&#039;ve had to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.win-freeware.com/REST2514.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;REST2514&lt;/a&gt; more than once to recover photos. It&#039;s free and it hasn&#039;t failed me yet.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As a purely film shooter, I always have a concrete backup (but that&#8217;s not to say I don&#8217;t have other issues that might result in loss of images to contend with!).</p>
<p>However, my wife has a PnS and I&#8217;ve had to use <a href="http://www.win-freeware.com/REST2514.htm" rel="nofollow">REST2514</a> more than once to recover photos. It&#8217;s free and it hasn&#8217;t failed me yet.</p>
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		<title>By: Stephen Steele</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314035</link>
		<dc:creator>Stephen Steele</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:02:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314035</guid>
		<description>Windows also has some indexing tools, so remember to turn those off before you plug it in. Also, if you really want to keep the data safe, use a bootable copy of linux for file recovery. There are several out there.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Windows also has some indexing tools, so remember to turn those off before you plug it in. Also, if you really want to keep the data safe, use a bootable copy of linux for file recovery. There are several out there.</p>
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		<title>By: David Field</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314033</link>
		<dc:creator>David Field</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 08:35:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314033</guid>
		<description>Be careful using recovery tools under OS X -- as soon as you plug in a device that is seen as an external drive (i.e. a memory card, USB stick, phone, ...) Spotlight will try to create some of it&#039;s files and directories on it (Finder will also do this if you delete any files)

These file can permanently overwrite the information needed to recover lost files -- not just the directory entries but the raw data itself

Although you can tell Spotlight not to index a device, you can only do so after it is plugged in and that preference is forgotten as soon as you unplug it -- therefore, it is safer to always use a PC for recovery if you can

You can pre-create empty files with the names that Spotlight/Finder use on a card (.Trashes, .fseventsd, .Spotlight-V100, ...) to stop them overwriting data BUT you need to do this everytime you format the card and before you write pictures to it -- so this isn&#039;t as useful in practice as it could be</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Be careful using recovery tools under OS X &#8212; as soon as you plug in a device that is seen as an external drive (i.e. a memory card, USB stick, phone, &#8230;) Spotlight will try to create some of it&#8217;s files and directories on it (Finder will also do this if you delete any files)</p>
<p>These file can permanently overwrite the information needed to recover lost files &#8212; not just the directory entries but the raw data itself</p>
<p>Although you can tell Spotlight not to index a device, you can only do so after it is plugged in and that preference is forgotten as soon as you unplug it &#8212; therefore, it is safer to always use a PC for recovery if you can</p>
<p>You can pre-create empty files with the names that Spotlight/Finder use on a card (.Trashes, .fseventsd, .Spotlight-V100, &#8230;) to stop them overwriting data BUT you need to do this everytime you format the card and before you write pictures to it &#8212; so this isn&#8217;t as useful in practice as it could be</p>
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		<title>By: Stephen Steele</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314031</link>
		<dc:creator>Stephen Steele</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2009 05:30:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314031</guid>
		<description>Having worked as a IT admin for years, and now as a pro photographer (I know, but I really do have one of my degrees in photography). Anyway, I can say, that most information is very recoverable. Most of what a pro can do, any one can do. The tool that was recommended is fine and all, but I would recommend Recuva. It&#039;s awesome and looks in a very detailed way at the bits and bytes on the card.

This being said. Recovery percentages average about 60%. And if the damages is physical, well, you can just throw it out in the trash. 

As as a rule of thumb I use two guidelines. I spread my pictures across multiple cards. I switch about ever 30 frames or so. I rotate through about 10 small cards every day. That way, I never lose blocks of the day, just smaller portions throughout the day. This also saves money, because it is generally cheaper per gig to buy several smaller cards. I know, it sounds like work, but hey, we changed film. 

The second rule is to toss cards after a set amount of time. Generally, bad things happen to older cards. I know, it seems like a waste of money, but technology does wear out with use. Heat damages circuitry, and the storage medium can only be switched between a 1 and 0 so many times. I always tell my friends to get a new computer every 3 years. Most of them don&#039;t listen to me, and invariably I spend a weekend building them a new computer and trying to recover the data that was lost when it crashed. I, usually, keep a card in my work rotation about 6 months. When you think about it, it&#039;s so cheap now that buying new cards every 6 months isn&#039;t bad. Now, this will vary depending on usage levels. I do about 3-4 weddings a week, and use all to half the cards depending on the requirements, and my trigger happiness. 

I always repeat this, to everyone, and hour of prevention and a 100$ is worth the three days of labor and the 500$ for a good data recover, oh and the lose of business from word of mouth, etc...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Having worked as a IT admin for years, and now as a pro photographer (I know, but I really do have one of my degrees in photography). Anyway, I can say, that most information is very recoverable. Most of what a pro can do, any one can do. The tool that was recommended is fine and all, but I would recommend Recuva. It&#8217;s awesome and looks in a very detailed way at the bits and bytes on the card.</p>
<p>This being said. Recovery percentages average about 60%. And if the damages is physical, well, you can just throw it out in the trash. </p>
<p>As as a rule of thumb I use two guidelines. I spread my pictures across multiple cards. I switch about ever 30 frames or so. I rotate through about 10 small cards every day. That way, I never lose blocks of the day, just smaller portions throughout the day. This also saves money, because it is generally cheaper per gig to buy several smaller cards. I know, it sounds like work, but hey, we changed film. </p>
<p>The second rule is to toss cards after a set amount of time. Generally, bad things happen to older cards. I know, it seems like a waste of money, but technology does wear out with use. Heat damages circuitry, and the storage medium can only be switched between a 1 and 0 so many times. I always tell my friends to get a new computer every 3 years. Most of them don&#8217;t listen to me, and invariably I spend a weekend building them a new computer and trying to recover the data that was lost when it crashed. I, usually, keep a card in my work rotation about 6 months. When you think about it, it&#8217;s so cheap now that buying new cards every 6 months isn&#8217;t bad. Now, this will vary depending on usage levels. I do about 3-4 weddings a week, and use all to half the cards depending on the requirements, and my trigger happiness. </p>
<p>I always repeat this, to everyone, and hour of prevention and a 100$ is worth the three days of labor and the 500$ for a good data recover, oh and the lose of business from word of mouth, etc&#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Denver Engagement Photographer</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314030</link>
		<dc:creator>Denver Engagement Photographer</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Oct 2009 00:32:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314030</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the lesson about data recovery.  I had no idea how deletion works, and it&#039;s good to know because I recently had a card go on the fritz.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the lesson about data recovery.  I had no idea how deletion works, and it&#8217;s good to know because I recently had a card go on the fritz.</p>
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		<title>By: Seinberg</title>
		<link>http://photocritic.org/photo-recovery/#comment-314028</link>
		<dc:creator>Seinberg</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Oct 2009 18:34:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://photocritic.org/?p=2392#comment-314028</guid>
		<description>No need to pay for this type of software.  The open source community has you covered.  Plus there&#039;s less risk of getting malware and viruses when the source code is open for all to see.

Here&#039;s a link to an open source, free, stable, and easy to use data recovery tool:
http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>No need to pay for this type of software.  The open source community has you covered.  Plus there&#8217;s less risk of getting malware and viruses when the source code is open for all to see.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a link to an open source, free, stable, and easy to use data recovery tool:<br />
<a href="http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec" rel="nofollow">http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec</a></p>
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